Donations for Zilch's new hammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilch
You'll not break a slicone seal by pounding on the driver frame from the back. Nope.
There's no solvents that'll do it, either, that I know of, and heat won't soften it. You'll have to cut it.
Soon as you can, insert a tapered prying tool, like a painter's 5-in-1 tool, between the frame and the baffle. Keep pressure on to stretch the silicone as you go around with a utility knife or NEW single-edge razor blades, maybe.
You want to cut the silicone itself, not the baffle, of course.
Your hardware store has a wire saw to use as Rob suggests above, as well, like a guitar string with "teeth," rings on the ends to pull it....
Zilch is right, you won't get it out by "pounding" on it, NOPE, but then interpreting "Gently tap all the way around the basket, USE GOOD JUDGEMENT" as instructions to pound on your passives would explain why Zilch is only allowed to play with plastic hammers nowadays...YEP http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/i...es/applaud.gif
A small bottle jack strategically placed between the back of the passive and the inside back of the cab can be incrementally adjusted to take up any slack against the stretch of the silcone as the passive moves out. The silicone will not simply tear. Reaching in and cutting any of the silicone you can will be to your advantage. It will stretch until the paint and pieces of partical board in the counterbore (that the silicone is adhereing to) break free and the passive will come out without consequential damage to the baffle. There is no quick fix for instant gratification, it is a process requiring patience and ingenuity. The instant gratification will come when you have tweaked your 150's to complete satisfaction and sit down in front of them for a delightfully tantilizing evening of your favorite tunes.
The wire saw idea is pretty good but you still have to get to the backside of the passive to hold the end of the wire and silcone is very uncooperative as well as the high probability of scraping both baffle and basket or even cutting into them on the exposed front where it matters most. http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/i...ies/bouncy.gif