2245H Detached Spider

I stupidly overdrove my poor 2245H playing Soul Coughing "Rollin" way too loud. The cone froze in the extended position. I pulled the driver and there is a little good news. The coil measures a DC resistance of 5.3 ohms which seems about right. Looking at the base of the cone I see that it is completely detached from the spider (the whole inner circumference of the spider is separated from the cone at the glue line). I was able to manipulate the cone back into position. It moves freely in the gap and, if I position it just right, it doesn't rub. I put a very small signal to it and it played without rubbing.

I'm wondering if I can repair this myself. Can a spider be reattached?

I've never done it (though I've serviced MANY 2245s that have jumped the gap by reconing...back when the kits were available). You'd want to use an epoxy to reattach the spider to the cone. The trick is, you don't want the VC former to act like a wick for the epoxy and allow it into the gap...that is a nightmare of a mess. When I work with epoxy on some drivers (EV used epoxy, for instance), I'd run a bead of a black glue (doming or spider-to-cone) to act as a barrier to the epoxy.

So, in your case, I'd push the spider down a little as I applied a bead of black glue (via syringe) and let it cure (typically less than an hour is sufficient). You don't need much of it. You'd like it to help attach the spider on the bottom side. Then use epoxy to attach the spider. You want to epoxy to be reasonably thick (partially cured or mixed with cabosil. You don't want it to run. Once applied, let it cure overnight.

As for centering. Ideally, you'd want to remove the dome and shim the VC to hold it in position while everything cures so it cures centered. The trick is in removing the dome. There are two ways...one is to use MEK or Acetone to weaken the doming clue and remove the dome...you also run the risk of weakening the cone too.

The safer way is to cut the dome off right at the top of the glue joint (so the entire bead is left behind). Presuming you are successful shimming/gluing/epoxying the spider back (and you can test it with the dome off. Then apply the new dome (JBL part 50201...still showing as available) right on top of the existing glue...it will act as a self centering guide. I would put a fresh bead of glue down and put the new dome on top of that. Apply a new bead of doming glue for the top side for the new dome and none will be the wiser.

Thank you for taking the time to lay out the process. I could use a little more clarification as I'm having trouble envisioning how to apply the black glue.

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Originally Posted by sguttag

So, in your case, I'd push the spider down a little as I applied a bead of black glue

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So if I have the speaker sitting on my bench magnet down and cone facing up, I'm pushing the spider towards the voice coil?

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Originally Posted by sguttag

You'd like it to help attach the spider on the bottom side.

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So after the black glue sets, I move the spider so the glue line is between the spider and the voice coil?

I appreciate your help!

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So if I have the speaker sitting on my bench magnet down and cone facing up, I'm pushing the spider towards the voice coil?

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Yes. You can probably let the syringe do the pushing...you don't want the spider to set up in the depressed position, naturally ...we aren't talking about much...just a little and it is just as a precaution. I've seen the results of epoxy wicking down into the gap.:blink:

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So after the black glue sets, I move the spider so the glue line is between the spider and the voice coil?

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No...you want the spider in its normal position before it dries. It is okay if the spider wipes through the glue since you want the barrier there. Pressing in on the cone to move the VC up and down a little to get the spider height should do the trick.

Again, if the black glue starts to glue the VC to the spider, that is FINE...you'll get a good dam there to stop the epoxy. The Epoxy is going to connect the spider to the VC (and even the cone) on the top side of the spider. With epoxy, you don't have to over do it either. A good bead that touches the spider, voice coil former and cone is going to hold it.

Unfortunately the vc former has some minor bubbles and some scorched marks on the vc windings. I decided to glue is back together with 5 minute epoxy knowing it might not go well. The glue up went well. Sadly there is a small buzz so it looks like I'm headed for a recone. Oh well, it was worth a try.

Here's a 2245H needing a foam surround for sale (no affiliation): http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...’s-and-1-2245H

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Originally Posted by Val

Unfortunately the vc former has some minor bubbles and some scorched marks on the vc windings. I decided to glue is back together with 5 minute epoxy knowing it might not go well. The glue up went well. Sadly there is a small buzz so it looks like I'm headed for a recone. Oh well, it was worth a try.

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Well, if it makes you feel any better 5 minute epoxy doesn’t do well in high heat so it would have likely failed sooner or later anyway. :banghead:

Good luck!


Widget

This seller says he has 1 on his updated (11/08/18) list. Also, Ken at Upland Loudspeaker (edgewound) says he should have his 2245 re-cone kits back in stock in a few weeks.

http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...ase-check-back

http://www.uplandloudspeaker.com

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Originally Posted by Mr. Widget

Well, if it makes you feel any better...

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A tiny bit better...still feeling like a dope for over driving it.

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Originally Posted by rusty jefferson

Ken at Upland Loudspeaker (edgewound)...

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I had a great call with Ken yesterday. I will eventually have it reconed by him...thanks

Since it will be awhile until I'm able to afford to recone my 2245h I decided to steal the E155 out of the garage 4699B speakers so my living room sub has a driver. I'm actually looking forward to hearing the difference between these two drivers. What a privilege to have a spare!

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