YES - Bubble Free Veneer - I have used it and have some now in walnut. I didn't make the connection between BFV and 22 mil. I don't have a lot of experience with it, but good so far. Thanx
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YES - Bubble Free Veneer - I have used it and have some now in walnut. I didn't make the connection between BFV and 22 mil. I don't have a lot of experience with it, but good so far. Thanx
I have used contact cement for years with excellent results. Do not use the low odor water based stuff... it will bubble up later. I have used a high tech 3M product that is a two component system that requires their own special gun... it is excellent, low toxicity and excellent working properties. The negative is you must buy a large quantity of the material at a time and you must buy their gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by riessen
I'll second Giskard's Weldwood recommendation. I have sprayed it with a dedicated pressure pot, (excellent results, but a real pain to clean the equipment) and I have used a firm low nap roller. With care you can get a smooth film with no bumps or puddles. I always use at least two coats and I always wear an organic vapor respirator... this is a must.
For thicker veneers with no backer I have found that the only way I can be certain of success is to use either a physical veneer press or a vacuum bag press. Both are great for building up panels but problematic for applying veneer to a finished speaker. With both types of presses I have had excellent results with standard yellow wood glue, hide glue, and resorcinol glue. The only problem I ever had was with a very porous wood (like burls) where the wood glue migrated up to the surface and ruined the veneer. For woods like this you need to seal the wood first.
Widget
NIIIIIIIIIIIICE JOB!!!:applaud: :D :applaud: :D :applaud: :D :applaud:
Personally I have never tried my hand at veneering and really admire anyone who can do such a beautiful job!
I've done patching repair work but never from scratch. You guys are teaching me alot and giving me the courage to give it a "press":bouncy: . Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by JBLROCKS
Have you had trouble finding the solvent based Weldwood lately. The last time I went to buy it in SoCal the shops only had the water based stuff. Also I am interested in what kind of veneer press you use for speakers. That has been my number one problem unless I choose to do one side of the box at a time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Widget
You can thank the AQMD for that. On the one hand, I applaud them for continuing to work on improving air quality in SoCal, even with unpopular solutions. Yet with the other, I support their actions more when they affect me less. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by andresohc
Dave - The reason you're not doing great veneer work is that you haven't motivated yourself to give it a try. It's NOT rocket science. If it was I couldn't do it - or I'd be a genious and we all know that's not true.Quote:
Originally Posted by norealtalent
Buy some veneer and find an old beat up pair of L100's or similar and get started. You'll be surprised at how easy it is. Remember what Bill Cosby used to say on his old TV show (maybe you're not old enough to remember) In wood shop he made a lot of great things but he made a lot of mistakes too. Anytime he screwed something up, he'd just cut a couple of notches in it and give it to his mother, telling her it was an ask tray. If your mother doesn't smoke you'll have to find another way to cover up your mistakes.
I will have pics to you today on the corner rebuilding that we talked about.
Rick http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/i...ies/bouncy.gif
Not entirely the fault of the AQMD. They are charged with reaching attainment of the State and federal Ambient Air Quality Standards and when the population center is this large, you've gotta do what you can, even when unpopular.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanium Dome
(Besides, they send me a lot of consulting work.;) )
That reminds me about the finish on the M9500. JBL had to have the enclosures finished in Arizona and then sent to Northridge to have them loaded with components.Quote:
Originally Posted by andresohc
The Titebond wood glue and vacuum is real good. I think Rockler just came up with a less expensive veneer vacuum.
Honestly, I've got no beef with AQMD, and I've spent several weekends out at their Diamond Bar facility. Their job is daunting and sometimes unpopular. Since I live and work in the LA Harbor area, site of some of the worst pollution, I consider AQMD my friend. :yes:Quote:
Originally Posted by toddalin
Am currently working on the air quality and noise analyses for the EIR for the hazardous waste remediation there in Wilmington.:blink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Titanium Dome
A quick lookup shows that the "decoflex" veneer manufacturer is Belgian,
it can be found here : http://www.decospan.com
attach the massive walnut to the front of the cabinet the best and easiest way?
I know I can use contact glue, but there will be no time for adjustments. Anybody have a tip of another glue to use?
Rolf
As far as "No time for adjustments using contact glue", You could use strips of cardboard placed on top of the preglued surface, to prevent the laminate from "Sticking". Once you have the laminate where you want it, carefully pull the strips of cardboard out, while securing the position of the laminate. I used this method to install an L shaped piece of laminate on a counter top that measured 120" X 56". As I removed the strips, I used a roller, to insure a tight bubble-free bond.
I would stick with wood glue. Makes a very strong connection. Easy to adjust.