4333 layout/dimensions needed .....

[barkingdog]

Hey DIYers,

I have all the components for my DIY 4333-ish project. I'm using a 2235H, 2425J, 2405H, and 2312/L92 combo. I have the components for some home-built 3105 crossovers and I intend to bi amp the system using an Ashley active crossover between the LF and the MF/HF components.

What I don't have is dimensions for the cabinet or the layout and sizes of the baffle cutouts. Can anyone assist? I have searched the site but haven't found anything. Could be my search methods but any help would be appreciated. I'm figuring on a 5 cu ft cabinet so port info would be great too. My copy of Winspk is pooched ......

Thanks!

[remusr]

Here's the 4333B general model pdf from jbl pro website.

[barkingdog]

Thanks Remusr, I already have that document. Are the dimensions of the cabinet the outside or inside dimensions?

What I'm really looking for is the locations and sizes of the holes on the baffle. I can probably just lay them out in a way that makes sense but I was hoping for specific cutout sizes and locations. I'm sure somebody on this site has built a similar cabinet before, I'm hoping they might have some plans to share.

Thanks again.

[mech986]

Hi,

Original Brochure 4333A link as JPG's here at Lansing Heritage:

http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...-4331-4333.htm

Dimensions:

http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...4333/page4.jpg

Same from JBL Pro as Pdf's for 4333B model:

http://www.jblpro.com/pub/obsolete/4331b_4333b.pdf

Hope this helps. You should contact member riessen as he has done a lot of DIY and I think has the dimensions and cutouts.

See this thread:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=5907

Regards,

Bart

[saeman]

I will look thru my notebooks to find the drawings I have for this cabinet and baffle. Give me a few days to find them. I will not have time to refine them so you'll have to sift thru my notes and drawings to determine what you need.

[northwood]

4333 is great

[speakerdave]

Here's a photo with the woofer out:

[speakerdave]

Dimensions:

Overall:
Height: 30 5/8"
Width: 24 3/8"
Depth: 17 9/16" from back edge to nose of bevel on the front.

Baffle details: Made of 3/4" fine-ply stock
Width: 22 1/4"
Height: 28 1/2"
Backset from nose of the edge: 3/4"

Location of holes: All distances are from baffle edge with my ruler butted up against the inside of the nosing.
Woofer: 3" from the right, 2 1/8" above the bottom.
Tweeter holes: 1 1/2" from the side, 5" down from the top
mid horn: 4 1/2" down from the top, centered on baffle
These three holes are all centered on the same horizontal line (with speaker upright).

You can get the hole diameters from specs or from your components, and then locate the centers.

Port: 4 and a fat 1/8 inside diameter; it's 4 1/2" long; 1 3/8" from the side and 2" up from the bottom.

[speakerdave]

The back is as you see it; the dimensions are the same as for the baffle.
The stock is 3/4" MDF (I guess). The stock for the sides measures a fat 1 1/16"; it might be a metric size--25mm.

The upper hatch gives access to the back of the horn. The lower one is for the entry panel, obviously. You may want to size and locate these for yourself, though here are some measurements:

The compression driver hatch is 8 1/8" by 9", 2" down from the top and it is centered in the baffle side to side; it's corners are radiused as you can see. I have not had this off, but I think the outer screws mount the hatch and the inner ones mount the cradle for the driver, which is also padded with two layers of the thin foam padding you will often see thrown into a box by your favorite ebay seller.

The cutout for the input posts is 4 1/4" by 5 1/2", but you may want to make you own arrangement here.

The inset of the back is 1/4"

The larger screw heads with washers (one has a tag saying not to remove them) are for mounting hanging hardware. The large Philips head screws you see in the back and in the baffle are also related to that.

[speakerdave]

The cabinets are veneered on all four sides, not a necessity if you plan on always using them vertically, and an integral base might be a worthwhile addition. With the cabinet sitting on the floor the tweeter and midrange are two low (unless you sit on the floor too; then it's perfect). You will notice that the arrangement of the midhorn and tweeter openings permits both mirror imaging in the vertical position and also horizontal positioning, which, with the tweeter right over the midhorn, may actually produce better imaging.

If you need more photos let me know. I can't do much with the foilcal with my digital camera, but if you want to try and have one made, let me know; I can get a high definition shot of it with a film camera and get it to you.

[speakerdave]

Nosing profile and other details.

I can't see what the cabinet joinery details are, although riessen probably knows. I'll sketch the nosing tomorrow.
And then there's the grille frame. It's not too soon to order your grille cloth from Mr. Zed.

By the way, you should look into building the updated version of the 3133 crossover for this speaker; here's the thread: http://www.audioheritage.org/vbullet...highlight=3133

The edge detail on the front is interesting because the inset of the baffle is greater that the apparent depth of the beveled piece. It may be that there is no solid walnut trim piece here, but I am not going to dig out any paint to find out. It could be that the front of the side, top and bottom panels is beveled and veneer applied. I am trying to get a drawing installed here, but I am not adept with the software. Inset of baffle is 3/4"; angle of bevel is 118 degrees from the plane of the side or top/bottom. The bevel distance is 1". It is not sharp at the front; there is a 1/8" flat running along that edge. The extension of the bevel from the edge of the casing panels is 7/16". Not very clear, I know, but the drawing, when I can get it posted, will help.

[speakerdave]

Interior photos: Several shots of the interior arrangements of the bracing and hardware. The bracing is made of 1" by 2 1/2" stock, and it feels like it was kiln dried, so I wouldn't ask green lumber to do this job (that is, don't just use scraps of 2 x 4 unless it's been drying for a few years and you can cut and plane it square and true). Each panel has two braces which divide it roughly into thirds of its long dimension, except the back, whose braces are vertical. There is some deviation from exact thirds to provide offset of the braces in the corners where they meet at the top and bottom of the back. Everything is glued and screwed and then covered with wrap-on insulation (except the inside of the baffle). As you can seen, the baffle was sprayed next.

[speakerdave]

Here is the promised drawing. It is kind of hokey, I know. I've discovered in moving to my present version of OS X I have left my drawing software behind and have had to use what is offered in Word. I had to take it into PowerPoint and make a slide of it and store it as a JPG. There it is. I think it is clear enough for you to get the idea. The measurement for the set back of the baffle face from the outer edge of the nose is not clear for some reason; it is 3/4".

[speakerdave]

Your frame dimension should be made to work with your actual box (things happen). Mine is 28 3/16 by 21 15/16 measured over the cloth.

The part of the frame that fits against the baffle is cut from one piece of 5/8" particle board; it is cut square on the outer edge.

The depth of the frame is 2 11/16", consisting of the particle board, short corner blocks and intermediate struts, and the outer rails which are made of 1/2" softwood and fastened to the ends of the corner blocks and struts. The bevel of the frame sides is achieved by cutting a 5 degree bevel on the outside lateral surfaces of the corner blocks, intermediate struts and outer rails. There is a cross piece reinforcing the outer rails in the long dimension. It is made of 3/4" solid softwood and fitted to the rails with a lap joint so that it's front surface is held back from the plane of the cloth. It is positioned to fit above the woofer and below the 2308. In addition, there are four small metal L brackets screwed to the outer rails to provide anchors for the tie tacks that mount the long metal badges to the front of the grille cloth, one pair for horizontal and one for vertical orientation.

These photographs may help:

[Hofmannhp]

thanks Dave for your grill pics.....searched for help to this in another thread.

I also try to find out how they fixed the cloth around the corners of the grill frame blocks.
I can not imagine that it is folded there?

HP