D130 Need help with crossover and general info

[rrwalkertr]

Ok, I am by no means a speaker expert. I have messed around with car stereos and stuff a little but I have never dealt with home stereos in detail. My dad when he was younger, bought some speakers from a local sound studio here in Muscle Shoals. For those into music, you have heard of Muscle Shoals (I still live in Muscle Shoals btw).

About the speakers.
I believe my dad has two more boxes at his house, and he gave me these two. On the back of the box, there is a metal tag with the name LYON on it. The numbers on these two box tags are 1068 and 1066. Now i think LYON was a company who built the boxes, but I am unsure on that, if anyone has info on LYON, i would love to learn about them. Each box houses what i think is a Signautre Series D130 (could be D130A) and a bullet tweeter (I think these are vintage 075 tweeters, but not sure) and a jbl crossover. What I am wanting to do is build new boxes for these beautiful speakers so they match my current entertaiment equipment. The cross overs are old and they have a knob on them that is not making good contact anymore. I want to buy new crossovers but JBL says they dont make a crossover for these two frequencies anymore. So, my question is this, which crossover should i put on these. I have a newer model Kenwood Reciever i bought in a set up. Its a Kenwood 6ch input, 6 ch amplifier, model VR-517 (100watt x 6 i think). I want these speakers to sound good while using this reciever but i do have an older style realistic reciever that i might use. Any help with matching a cross over for me to these speakers and hints on what to do with building a box to maximize sound quality would be nice. If you know who LYON is that would be cool to know as well, thanks guys. Pcitures are below of the stuff.

[Zilch]

Your crossover is N2400, I believe.

There should be a label on the back.

The L-Pad can be cleaned, or replaced with a new one.

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...tics/N2400.pdf

[Baron030]

Hi rrwalkertr

I see that your new here, so welcome to the LH forums.
I would not recommend replacing the N2400 crossover networks. The D130, 075, and the N2400 crossover are all designed to work together as a system, a "030 system" to be precise. So, other then giving the L-Pad a good cleaning, the crossover should work just fine. But, if you really want to replace the L-Pad, then you can order a 15-watt 8 ohm L-Pad from www.partsexpress.com. They offer this a 3/8” or a 1” shaft length for the N2400 network either one will work just fine. And here is link to a complete N2400 crossover overhaul, I you really what to go that far.

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=12938
But, a complete N2400 overhaul really isn’t necessary.

You are also asking advice on an enclosure. Personally, I would recommend a C38 Enclosure. Here is a link to the C38 Enclosure Plans: http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/...ns/c35-c39.htm

Ejfud, a member here, recently did an absolutely spectacular restoration of a C38 enclosure. So, I would strongly recommend looking that thread as well:
http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=13844

Baron030

[rrwalkertr]

yes i already saw those pictures, it was awesome overhaul he did. thanks for the info man, what type cleaner and is there an article somewhere giving instructions on cleaning the lpad, thanks

[Baron030]

On the N2400 crossover, The L-Pads should have a black plastic housing that is about 1.5" in diameter. And they will have metal cap attached to its back. This metal cap is only pressed on. So, there are no screws holding it in place and there is no need to remove any decals off of the back. Using any old knife, you start by prying the blade down between the plastic housing and the metal cap. And then with a twisting motion on the knife, the metal cap will start to slide apart. Once, the cap starts to slide a bit, switch to a straight blade screw driver for more leverage. Once the metal cap is off, the L-Pads resistance wire is exposed. So it's real easy to clean the contact surfaces with a pencil eraser or spray it with a contact cleaner. But, I would not recommend trying to lift the wiper arm blades away from the resistance wire to clean under them. That would more then likely bend the blades, which would prevent them from ever making a good contact ever again. Oh, and just for clarification, the wiper arm is the part that moves, then you change the L-Pads intensity setting. After cleaning just press the metal cap back on and you are good to go for several years.

Baron030

[rrwalkertr]

i will have to do this. i have one other question at the moment. on the back of these boxes, the speaker wire runs through a small tube fuse. is this neccesary? i have never seen a fuse on the back of a speaker box. thanks guys, the solder on the fuse has broken away on one of my wires and i was going to remove the fuses if they arent needed, thanks.