Looky What I just got - 4341 Monitors

[opimax]

I am curious, would it fix a known bad cable. It wouldn't be worth it but still am curious

Thanks

Mark

[hjames]

What do you mean by "A known bad cable"?

If you just need a new fitting cut onto the end - I did CATV head-end work (big dish, fiber, AV racks & such) years ago for MoCo Cable, before it was ComCast. I still have crimpers and fittings and stuff, so it probably wouldn't take long to do a fitting.
I had no idea - remind me next time we get together and I'll bring stuff ...

I am curious, would it fix a known bad cable. It wouldn't be worth it but still am curious

Thanks

Mark

[opimax]

thanks Heather,

it is with w/one of the telephone/cable guys at work, taking his time but I would hope he can do it. I could drive out to Comcast and they would also do It I am sure.

Maybe I am wrong but I thought the hum is caused buy a short with metal shieldind to the actual center run, most likely at the end. the amount of hum depends on the angle of the cable at the connector so I thought it was more or less touching the 2 wires at the connector. I don't believe the one having a new end did this at all.

BUT that happened when I moved the equipment to the left of the fireplace. I originally left the first cable connected awhile when moved and don't remember having the issue.Then I cut the head off ran speaker wires in the old hole and grabbed a long run from hte now unused room upstairs and that is when I noticed it. The final point was the hum level would change when just moving the cable a little in the mess behind the equipment.

So the original question is would that device fix a bad cable? also if running through something similar such as the Panamax how much "choking" of signal can be made and still work well?

I am thinking ahead in case the it still hums w/the repaired cable

sorry to steal your thread , hope it helps your question

Mark

[hjames]

You problem could be from a bad piece of shield or foil. You are near a lot of DC TV transmitters, so you should have quad shield cable (4 layers of shielding - foil/braid/foil and another braid) to keep out stray signals from all the local to you TV and radio stations. The cable could have a bad or poorly made fitting, perhaps a staple in it somewhere, or even be crushed at some point.

Its hard to say absolutely - the main CATV trunks (underground or on poles) are tied to power supplies that put 60v AC on those trunks to power the line amplifier and keep the channels at the right levels. That power should get stripped off when it comes through the taps that pull of feeds for the individual homes in the system. They should also come through a ground block tied to a rod driven in the ground outside your home, but sometimes an outside ground isn't the same "ground" potential as your household wiring, and when they aren't the same, that difference could be heard as a hum.. If you unscrew the coax from your cable box, does the hum go completely away?

Its also possible that you have more than once source of hum ...

First step, like Bo said, is to make sure all of your AV gear is plugged into a power strip on the same wall socket. That was most of my problem. The outlet in the right side of the room (that ran my biamp rack) was a different circuit off the fusebox than the left outlet that ran the receiver, TIVO, TV and all the sources (CD, DVD, phono, etc). Once I put all of them on the same outlet, the hum level went down bigtime.

thanks Heather,

it is with w/one of the telephone/cable guys at work, taking his time but I would hope he can do it. I could drive out to Comcast and they would also do It I am sure.

Maybe I am wrong but I thought the hum is caused by a short with metal shield into the actual center run, most likely at the end. the amount of hum depends on the angle of the cable at the connector so I thought it was more or less touching the 2 wires at the connector. I don't believe the one having a new end did this at all.

BUT that happened when I moved the equipment to the left of the fireplace. I originally left the first cable connected awhile when moved and don't remember having the issue.Then I cut the head off ran speaker wires in the old hole and grabbed a long run from hte now unused room upstairs and that is when I noticed it. The final point was the hum level would change when just moving the cable a little in the mess behind the equipment.

So the original question is would that device fix a bad cable? also if running through something similar such as the Panamax how much "choking" of signal can be made and still work well?

I am thinking ahead in case the it still hums w/the repaired cable

sorry to steal your thread , hope it helps your question

Mark

[opimax]

all on 1 circuit, everything through the Panamax signal regenerator (fancy ?)

Current hum started w/move, dead silence til then after the other changes (3>2), actually surprised how quiet the system was. If I pull the tv input cable, can't tell it is on till hiss comes in at what would be unusable, ridiculous volume level w/signal, and not including fans (loud TV,computer remember?)

I have added the Wii but took it out for testing, no difference

Can't hear anything from my chair today, haven't put my ear near the speaker to test, ignoring till cable comes back anyway!

And changing a few connections, amps when i get them back from repair, hopefully soon.

Mark

[Mr. Widget]

Maybe I am wrong but I thought the hum is caused buy a short with metal shieldind to the actual center run...

Yes. That would be wrong. Hum is caused by ground loops (improper grounding of your system) or it can be induced by having cheap cable or damaged cable. If you hear any change in hum due to physically moving the cable replace that cable.


Widget

[opimax]

And that is what I will do as soon as my friend has finished!!! but what is a "bad" cable compared to a good one? what exactly got damaged? I was shown by the cable guy how some of my earlier cables had gaps at the as the plastic was not fully seated against the end of the head but this one doesn't show that...

Heather its nice out, come by (don't forget your cable stuff though) a little Wii bowling for Emma? new old toys to look at and play

OK run out of bribes (none were that good i know)

Mark

[subwoof]

Since the CATV industry decided that aluminum was "good enough" for the shield, it stands to reason that after some amount of time corrosion will make itself known and cause a high junction resistance on one crimp / connection. AND the cheap foam insulation will compress with time and reduce the pressure on one side of the crimp.

NOW if this happens it forces a ground loop via the AC ground plug if both end terminations are to grounded items or in the case of a "floating" switching power supply chassis ( 90% of new video displays/ tv's ) you couple it through the noise caps.

And hum results.

Make sure ALL the F connectors are tight, crimps are secure and switch out suspect cables to see if the problem switches with it.

The other suggestions are ALL valid - it is usually more than one issue. I had a hum in the house that drove me nuts until I noticed one daughter moving her dresser upstairs and the hum changed *downstairs*

sub

[hjames]

After reading the Ashly XR1001 Crossover thread from Bo and Mr Widget, it sounded changing out my JBL UREI M552 active crossover for an Ashly XR1001 active crossover would be a worthwhile upgrade. I trcked them for a while on deBay, bid unsuccessfully on about 6 of them over the last few months, and about a week ago I had success and won one for a reasonable price. It arrived in the mail today, and was pretty much a drop in replacement. I did flip the polarity of the bass amp output (JBL 6260) as recommended in that thread. Emma and I are going to be rechecking all our music again, but from the initial test, it sounds like there is more definition and clarity to the sound now. The bass is definately firmer (if thats possible) and the high end has smoothed out the shrill edge somehow. I have more listening to do over the weekend, but it looks like the JBL/UREI M552 will be up for sale soon!

Thanks again everybody!

[johnaec]

...Ashly XR1001 active crossover...

If you come across an Ashly XR4001, (especially the newer gray one), let me know. ('Still collecting the components for a 4-way system in progress...)

John

[sourceoneaudio]

Heather,
What did you pay for your x-over? Seems like a lot of fuss on bidding on 6 of them on e-bay when you can buy them new for $300.00.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=245-208

[hjames]

Heather,
What did you pay for your x-over? Seems like a lot of fuss on bidding on 6 of them on e-bay when you can buy them new for $300.00.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=245-208

not a lot of fuss at all - watch the sale, then snipe at the end and - know your limits.
Besides, you can actually get them new for around $240 if you look harder (google is your friend).

Of course, I paid much less ...

[richluvsound]

Heather ,

you could be losing up to 4 db of gain through those lenses . GIVE EM THE DUSTER treatment

Seriously, the system must be sounding sweet .

Happy Easter !

Rich

[boputnam]

I did flip the polarity of the bass amp output (JBL 6260) as recommended in that thread. ... The bass is definately firmer...

I do wish Ashly had a polarity switch for the low-pass - would be handy.

I often run into Ashly crossovers, and not infrequently find that sub positioning in the hall has resulted in them being out-of-phase with the mains. Last night Smaart suggested this could be an issue, so on a hunch we stuck some Hosa GXX-195 adapters (swaps Pin2 and Pin3) on the LF outputs of the XR2001 and voilá - the null at crossover was gone and the overall response of the LF was much better behaved.

[Krunchy]

. I did flip the polarity of the bass amp output (JBL 6260) as recommended in that thread. Thanks again everybody!

Heather, Bo, was it the Low Pass or the High Pass that had to be switched? just want to clarify. Thanks!

Quote Ian...The thing to remember (and I sent an email to Rich about this ) is you must reverse the polarity of the high pass amp outputs going into the 4345 when you use LR 24 db slopes.