Are those listed amounts of pigment for one QT. or two QT.s final product.???
Are those listed amounts of pigment for one QT. or two QT.s final product.???
Sorry John, I thought that was clear:
My abbreviations may be presumptive.Originally posted by boputnam
Neutral Base: 1 qt of Interior Latex Eggshell Enamel - "Bright Life" (or "Platinum") brand Martin Senour Paints.
qt = US Quart (one, uno, een, un, ein, ένας, um, واحد, etc).
We sure don't want baby blue!!
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
OK I got it. By the way even thought canada is on the metric system when it comes to paint it is all in U.S. measurements.
I have a buddy that is in the painting bussiness and i think he told me once that most of the paint codes are common to all manufacturers of pigments but i will find out. Althought i have nothing to compare it to i will never the less get a Qt. mixed up and see whats up. I was going to wood veneer the front of my 4350 clones but hey maybe if i fall in love with JBL Blue i might go for it. By the way i have still to find some construction and porting specs for the 4350-55 clones. Have spoke to a half dozen members that claim they have a pair in there collection and have got promises of them getting back to me, but am still waiting???
There is a problem with this blue. Do not use.
It lacks some tweaking of white that was added at the last, which the Paint Guy omitted from the recipe. I have, over the past 5-sessions with this guy, determined he lacks a bit of the attention to extreme detail this match requires. Only the first tin of this was good - follow-on batches revealed the error.
I apologize for the mistake - I should have caught it in some QA/QC testing. Quite embarrasing... :o
I will try and go remedy this particular formula next week - when more base is in-stock - but for now, defer using this formula.
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
At risk of being a serious pain in the arse can you re state the correct fomulae.
I'm confused.
Ian
Not at all - at least in this one case...
The painter that got it done, was a known alcoholic, but he assured me he was taking proper notes. Problem was, he nearly titrated each pigment addition over the course of an hour each time, and kept getting distracted. He only once got the notations correct, below. He has since been separated from his job...
Here's the corrected formula:
Sherwin Williams pigments and using a Martin Senour "Bright Life" Latex Eggshell Enamel, Neutral Base (Qt.):
Black: 22/32I have not tried to convert this to metric - the problem is, you don't know the actual volume in the starter base Qt. That is, it is somewhat less than a Qt to allow for the addition of pigments. Dunno what that volume is, exactly, and not knowing it will confuse your dilution(s)...
Blue: 1 oz + 16/32
Violet: 16/32
Red Oxide: 1/64
White: 21/32
bo
"Indeed, not!!"
I realise it is not the purist approach but next opportunity might you please send in the post a swatch on cardboard of the right stuff.
For what I am doing it will be more than adequate.
regards
Ian
Hello you folks in Europe. Try a good local automotive paint shop, they should be able to decipher the paint code. By the way my bathroom is a simple L1.
( off white ). Tell them you want to got a Caddi from Elvis, that should get them going. Don't forget to have a JBL system installed first.
Latex? Is there a reason you are not using a catalized finish other than the obvious health hazard? (without proper equipment - respirator, etc.) Maybe I am thinking about the "rubbery" stuff I used to get 30 years ago and stuck with alkyd enamel ever since.
R Beardsley (BEAR)
Hi Klaus,Originally Posted by pentictonklaus
the folks in Europe can simply buy a european standard color with the no. RAL 5007. It's very near (99%) the real color. But also the real color differs after some years using the speakers without grille.
(The "Bo" blue is our standard color here)
HP
Please help us save more info about the vintage systems. Let us register your speakers and drivers.
Hi Klaus,Originally Posted by Hofmannhp
After some hunting down I was able to obtain the RAL 5007 forumulae from a Dulux Trade Depot here at home.
Below is the comparison of cans open and lid (wet) to compare Bo's previous batch and the RAL 5005 Brilliant Blue. From what Bo was saying the difference in the tint could be the touch of white oxide missing from this batch.
What was interesting was there system via the online data base. The Dulux guy simply searched their global data base, found RAL 5007 and then hit the decode forumula key. The machine then squirted the precise quantities including a tiny little drop of Red Oxide into the base..no human error here!
At any rate provided all your JBL's are painted with the same batch I don't suppose it really matters.
Ian
I am looking to get that paint for the 4301b's (finally)!!
Originally Posted by boputnam
Last edited by JuniorJBL; 05-31-2005 at 06:32 AM. Reason: add a t
Special thanks to Bo for mailing me a painted wood sample.
I went you my paint shop a got a mix/match done today.
The resulting formulae using Wattle color coding was B38 1/4, E/Y23 1/2, V4, KX 30 1/2 (I m not sure about the last fraction as it was scribbled on the can lid)
It looks about right...even wet but this particular color does vary according to light conditions.
To others I tried black and various other colors, black was too dark for my room.
JBL blue has won the approval of all visitors.
Ian
THANKS IAN/BO!!! I couldn't find this anywhere. Again, thanks!!
Hi Ian,
A little confused, as I read it you have now tried 4 different blue samples? A quick comparison with a picture of my once 4333B's looks like RAL5007 might be the best bet?
What do you consider the best match rated 1,2,3,4?
I am thinking of painting my 2235 cabinet baffle JBL blue as a JBL tribute.
thanks, Frank
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