2225 vs 2231

[ngccglp]

Hi,

May I know if the 2225 can be used as a direct substitute for my 2231 in my 4333A? Which is a better driver?


Thanks.
David

[speakerdave]

These drivers are not in competition with each other, but are rather designed for different uses.

If you substitute a 2225 for a 2231 in that cabinet you will be wondering what happened to your very low frequency response.

What is the situation that brings up the question?

David

[ngccglp]

Thanks guys.

Someone is selling off compression drivers/woofers/horns as a package. I am interested in the horn and compression driver. If I have to get the package, I was wondering if I could use the woofers for my 4333A so that it will not be a waste.

David

[jbl]

From my experience with the 2225's in a 5ft3 cabinet and hearing the 4430's and L300's, there really is'nt that great of a difference as some have stated in low frequency extension between the two, given the same sized cabinet. The 2235 (4430) measures about 8Hz lower than my 4671 system. Listening to music, almost all from CD's, the bass energy (output) from CD's or other digital media is much greater than that from LP's. While the 2235 measures a lower frequency output compared to the 2225, the greater output of CD's more that makes up for the loss of the 2225 (on paper). What I like about the 2225, is its greater output. The music has a more realistic quality than the VLF based drivers. That's just my opinion.
Depending on what's most important to you, they can be interchanged. Remember that you will be changing the intended design and that it may require a cross over modification. Listen to music rather than get caught up in specs.

Ron

[Mr. Widget]

Originally posted by jbl
From my experience with the 2225's in a 5ft3 cabinet and hearing the 4430's and L300's, there really is'nt that great of a difference as some have stated in low frequency extension between the two, given the same sized cabinet.
Ron

I couldn't disagree more. I suppose listening tastes and the type of music listened to must account for this. I find the 2225 and all of the many higher output JBL woofers I have used to be seriously lacking of deep bass making the overall sound seem a bit thin.

But heck I have a room full of Sub1500s.

[jbl]

Hi Widget,
You're comparing a sub-woofer speaker to a low frequency woofer. That's not a fair comparison. What I am trying to say is that in the same size cabinet, in this case 5ft3, (you did'nt say how many 1500's you're using or the cabinet(s) size) the difference is not that great. Replacing the 2231 with a 2225 in a 4333 was the issue. The 2231/2235 can be used as a sub-woofer in larger cabinets where as the 2225 can't. The benefits of the 2231/35 can't fully be realized in the 4333 or any other cabinet of that size. It requires a larger cabinet.
There would be a loss of low frequency response with the 2225, but it would not be terrible. The best example I can think of is the 4435. It uses the lighter 2234 instead of the 2235 for increased
"attack". The present thinking at JBL is the 2242. The 2245was designed for use as a sub-woofer where the 2235 was designed for use as a studio monitor or for sub-woofer use. To replace a 2231 or 2235 in the 4333 with a 2225 would be possible but the end result would be different from what it was designed as.

Ron

[4313B]

"May I know if the 2225 can be used as a direct substitute for my 2231 in my 4333A?"

No it cannot. Different animals.

"Which is a better driver?"

The 2231 is the better driver for extended low frequency response where maximum bandwidth is required in Home Hi-Fi and Studio Monitor applications. The 2225 is the better driver for sound reinforcement applications where extended low frequency response can be sacrificed for increased efficiency.

If you insist on using the 2225 in a stock 4333 system then tune the enclosure up ~ 10 Hz and account for the increased rise in response of the 2225 with your low pass filter.

[Mr. Widget]

Originally posted by jbl
Hi Widget,
You're comparing a sub-woofer speaker to a low frequency woofer.

Actually I wasn't. The Sub 1500 reference was meant as a joke.

I have used the 2225 in a 40Hz Box as a woofer and I feel that while it may be a bit punchier in the upper bass it sounds anemic to me if you don't add a sub. I find the 2235 a much better compromise as a woofer. I find even it's low end a bit lacking, but I am listening in a very large room. In a very small room it might be considered bass heavy.

Widget

[ngccglp]

Interesting...

Actually, my main intent is to skip the 2420 (too much problem) and add a 2445+2380 to handle the mid freq. But the seller is asking for package sales with 2225 and 2404.

If I use the 2445+2380, do I need a crossover mod? I was thinking of running the wires that connect the 2420 to the 2445 outside the cabinet.

Thanks
David

[Robh3606]

Hello David


Yes you will need a crossover mod running the 2380. It is a CD horn and needs EQ for flat response. You going to biamp?? If so an M552/M553 or a 5234/5235 can be used to give you the right EQ. The M552/M553 has the curves built in with selectable jumpers while the 5234/5235 requires the correct cards. You may or may not need the baby cheeks depending on taste. Either way if you get them at a reasonable price you can always E-Bay them.

Rob

[Mr. Widget]

Originally posted by ngccglp
Interesting...

Actually, my main intent is to skip the 2420 (too much problem) ....
Thanks
David

An easy upgrade would be to get a pair of 2441s and change the horn to the 2311s. These parts will bolt directly into your cabinets and will improve the midrange. The original crossover will work with this upgrade. The only downside is that you will have to pay about $700 or perhaps a bit more plus shipping from the States unless you can find these parts locally.

Widget