A bright idea for yellowed Aquaplas

[Steve Gonzales]

I appreciate the concern about cone mass increases and i know they are important, but, If done Properly, you will use so little material that it would suprize the heck out of you!!. this project is meant for those who have no other REASONABLE choice. this is the right material for the job in this case, TRUST ME, it is WAY LESS THAN A GRAM!.

[4313B]

Steve, I'm not arguing. All I'm saying is someone could measure the additional weight easy enough if so inclined. I'm not going to because I don't care, but some people like raw data, e.g. "the coating added 0.8 grams to the total moving mass, which is negligible in that the total moving mass was originally 142.6 grams". That's all I'm saying. I'm also not implying that you should go to the hassle of measuring the difference.

I will say that I might want to measure this application on something like an LE8T because that cone is so very light already that any mass increase could have a greater effect (Chances are though that I probably wouldn't care enough to bother). On an LE14 cone I really can't see it being significant at all. They look nice!

[Steve Gonzales]

Sometimes it looks like I'm taking it the wrong way ,but I really respect you Giskard and know that ,you know, what the hell you are talking about!. I would LOVE to know what the difference is. There is Absolutely NO PROBLEM with your response AT ALL!!!.

[Earl K]

Nice Work Steve

- I may employ this "whitening" to some of my le14a(s) sometime this year .
- If/when I do, I'll measure the Fs , "before & after" any such treatment.
- At that time, I would post the results here in this thread.

FWIW; the 2122h has only 3 grams of extra weight in its' moving mass, when compared to a 2123h . But that weight, along with its' higher compliance surround is able to lower the Fs (from 85hz for the 2123h) to @ 40hz ( 2122h ). My point is that the ratio of additional mass ( to the overall cone mass ) is also quite important .

EDIT: I see Giskard has already addressed this concern . Oh well - I'm a slow typer .

I'm quite interested in the properties of that "undercoat" sealing paint you used. I'm ( very casually ) looking for an available substitute for Aquaplas™ . I have a garbage 2220 cone around here so I think I'll paint a portion of it to see what happens to the untreated paper-pulp. Problem is; I think my "stain-blocker" is oil-based.

<. Earl K

[Steve Gonzales]

I think the before and after would be a great benefit to the members and i look forward to your post. As for the use of this material as an Aquaplas substitute, I would have to say that it wouldn't be a good choice. Each coat that I applied to the speaker is about 1/10th of the thickness of a Kleenex tissue!. the product is called Zinnser "Bullseye 1-2-3". It's stain blocking abilities are the reason that it covers so well, not because of it's "solids" content. When I painted large commercial buildings, there was a product I used called "Elastomeric" coating. This is a special product that allows for considerable thickness to be gained in one coat. It has vulcanized components to it and might be a better choice.

[Earl K]

When I painted large commercial buildings, there was a product I used called "Elastomeric" coating. This is a special product that allows for considerable thickness to be gained in one coat. It has vulcanized components to it and might be a better choice.

Thanks for that.

Any idea who makes this "Elastomeric" paint ?

<. Earl K

EDIT : a google search for "elastomeric paint" suggests its a distinct "class" of paint .

[Steve Gonzales]

Yes, Sherwin Williams makes a good one and if you can find it Sonabourn. I might not be spelling that right, it is Sahn-ah-born.

[Earl K]

[Steve Gonzales]

I haven't got the trim rings on yet but here are the speakers with the flanges cleaned up. I want to add that the Zinnser Bullseye 1-2-3 primer has a high organic resin content and that allows it to cure with hardness that straight latex paint does not have. With this product, you can scrape the surface very hard with your finger nail and IT WILL NOT PEEL-PERIOD! Latex paint WILL and shoe polish will chaulk off too.

[scott fitlin]

Those DO look new!

[Steve Gonzales]

I just wanted to shead some new light on this subject. I want to show that the fine detail of the aquaplas surface remains intact.

[Steve Gonzales]

better

[dblaxter]

i have noticed that steve went threw a lot of trouble to make some dingy yellow cones look like new ,well almost , but to some the minor difference in wieght and ts paramiters seemed to be in question ,me personally ,i dont think you would be able to here the difference with the human ear ,at least i dont think i could ,but as ANUL as some of us jbl nuts are it seemed to be a concern ,also the chance of peeling in the future not with what steve used but you know some one might just use some product that might not fair as well in time ,so here is another option as strange as it sound with the new high tech cleaning products i beleive i found and tried one that works very nice ,now it does not do as well as painting but there is no ,(NONE) , added wieght ,and it will get it 90 to 95% PLUS as white as painting ,very carefully prepping the same way ,tapeing the dust cap ,it does not effect the surround ,but i did not get any on them, or almost ,using a clorox bleach pen ,the scrubbing side ,apply and work into cone lightly ,it going to get wet but not saturating them and wipe off with a clean white paper towel , then when it dries you will see a clean white noticable difference. i have done 2 test cones ,junks from blown speakers that were reconed ,then i did 2 sets of woofers 128h and 115 s ,i have pics of the 128h , 1 done and 1 not ,also i will do a before and after pics of the next set (same driver,to see difference in the same driver)
and steve nice job ,i just thought i would give members the info of what i have tried and had decent results with ,for those who are worried about the possible change

[dblaxter]

here are some pics ,hope i inserted them properly

[dblaxter]

here is the same one from above pic the first pic was blinded by the whiteness of the cone from flash , but here is a better pic , i got the pics above backwards the top was after the bottom was before DAAAA