I freed a pair of L20t3's and want to match them with a "musical" subwoofer. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
I freed a pair of L20t3's and want to match them with a "musical" subwoofer. Anyone done this? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Yes, I'd buy new parts from JBL ( Harman ) from their "Performance Series".Any suggestions? Thanks!
To start-off, I'd buy a pair of le14h-3 ( 14" ) woofers with the knowledge that I'd eventually want to go 4 way and add a 8" ( of some sort ) in between the present midbass you've got in that L20t3 . Also, I'd eventually retire the 115h-1 and get a dedicated midrange ( one or the other; 4" from the PT800 or the 6" from the PC600 ).
Here's are prices ( some current/ some last fall ) and some pictures of the stuff that I'd buy .
Pictures are courtesy of "Titanium Dome" .
More "Performance Series" parts - with prices .
As you can see ; I'm recommending buying the subwoofer part first .
If you find that you wish to upgrade to some of JBLs' latest components ( roughly comparable to an upgrade path from your current 115h-1 midbass driver ) then buy the 8" ( 908ti ) and the 4" ( 904ti ) to replace your current single driver in your L20t3. Keep the tweeter you have . Of course this will require a new cabinet along with a new crossover. ( The PT800 crossover parts values are available if you prefer to build your own newtworks ) .
If you want to remain 3 way forever then consider the le120h ( 12" ) woofer from the L7 and L90 ( Europeon only ) speakers .
- This is a well made driver and everyone who has it likes it. Just remember , a 12" doesn't move as much air as a 14" . Ts parameters are not available for it - but the word from Giskard is to use those from the 128h-1 / 12" . Makes sense .
Here are pictures of the le120h ( this time courtesy of "Paragon" ) along with some current prices from Harman .
At a new unit price ( with a warranty ) that is sub $ 200. - I don't know why anyone would bother with eBay ( and its' regular offering of flotsam that always need refoaming -( at the very least ) / or at worst, expensive reconing ) .
Option #2, forever 3-way, is best for me given my low skill level, space consideration, price, performance goal, etc. Thanks, this will be a good project for me. I'll try building just one first and see how successful it is. I need a small cabinet size.
I have not decided how I will power the L20t3's yet, wanted to decide on a subwoofer setup first. This system will be in a small family room, 14x18x8=2016, and would not be played very loudly. Going with the 12" subs, le120h, do you think 55w per channel would be enough power? (Otherwise, I will have to invest in amplification and the project cost over-run could trigger the mandatory F666 form with approval by She-who-must-be-obeyed.)
Oh, I noticed that the JBL site shows the L20t3 at 6 ohm, but 8 ohm is printed on the speaker. Should I pull the drivers to verify the models, or does it matter for your recommendation?
Thanks again!
- You know Kim, I'm a long time SR ( sound reinforcement ) guy - maybe I'm just too "jaded" to honestly answer your question about power needs . My biamped system is in a like sized room and yet I use about 1300 watts all the while never listening above 95 db ("A" weighted ). I guess I do like some headroom.14x18x8=2016, and would not be played very loudly. Going with the 12" subs, le120h, do you think 55w per channel would be enough power? (Otherwise, I will have to invest in amplification and the project cost over-run could trigger the mandatory F666 form with approval by She-who-must-be-obeyed.)
- Personally, I'd triple or quadruple the watts that your power amp can supply to this setup . Bass just sucks up watts. Your best bet will likely be to purchase a separate plate amp ( for each woofer ) from "Parts Express" . These are amps that also have a builtin crossover ( which you are going to need ) .
Use the "search" engine of this site to find out more info on "plate amps" .
Use : plateamps , or ; plate-amps or plate amps ( along with PE or Parts Express ) in the "info window" of the search engine. Add "Robh3606" into the other window for authors - check-off "posts made by" as your delimiter .
- No at this tme it doesn't matter. Don't go pulling the L20t3 apart - it won't tell you any meaningful information.Oh, I noticed that the JBL site shows the L20t3 at 6 ohm, but 8 ohm is printed on the speaker. Should I pull the drivers to verify the models, or does it matter for your recommendation?
EDIT ( sometime later ) Re; the power wattage question .
- If you purchase a pair of le120h woofs / enclose them / build passive crossovers to go between them and the L20t3 top boxes / ,,,,well, you've essentially just constructed a hybrid "2-box" version of the L100T speaker. So,,,, to answer your question about power needs - take a pair of your existing L100T speakers ( along with your 55wpc amp ) into the room where this will all be setup and determine for yourself if that specific amps wattage is enough to power the speakers in that room . It's really that simple .
( Once you've obtained these le120h speakers - ask for some crossover recommendations , as well as enclosure/tuning recommendations ) .
You could apply 200 uf capacitors to the L20T3 speakers to roll them off, increasing your power handling on them and reducing the amplifier requirements.Originally Posted by Kim L
The Le120 new is a great idea unless they are not available. Post an add in the MARKETPLACE area here and see if you can get a 128H, 2214H, or something comparable. Those woofers work in 1.7 - 2.5 cu ft and are excellent performers.
Hi Kim.
Question for you. Are you looking to use the orriginal cabinets for your project, or building your own? if you are building your own, I would be happy to adopt your orriginal boxes. I am looking for a pair of boxes for a project of my own. Let me know either way.
Thanks in advance,
eyedoc.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)