4430 help!

[Russellc]

If you look on the Newark catalog page, the switch is 6 poles, actually, a double stack of 3 poles, and you set the stop for anywhere between 2 and 4 positions. I used three positions, and 5 of the 6 poles, as I recall.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/level5/mod...en_US/5050.xml

So, the correct current Newark part# is 06M4599

You can forget about the Vishay-Dale resistor. Guido was right, it's not necessary, since the variable resistance makes up the difference, notwithstanding whether it comes before or after. If you want to use it anyway, PM me your mailing address, and I'll send you a couple.

I sent you a PM, I may have another question about how to hook up these switches when I get them.

Thanks in advance,

Russellc

[JoMoCo]

Bump, to help make more accessible to those of us with applicable projects.

Note google search located it.

LH search....

[Zilch]

COOL!

Now, nearly five years later, I still use them.

In retrospect, asked to build them for someone else, I would force a decision as to whether an active, passive, or biwire version was desired and forgo the switching. I'd also use the ERSE "Hi-Q" laminate inductor for L102, as I have done many times since....

[Zonker92]

I'm startin' a parts list here.

Reviving this old thread, does anyone still have the parts list that apparently used to be here? I'm toying around with the idea of building some outboard biased 4430 (N3134) networks, split into LF and HF.

I have the caps, L pads and resistors figured out pretty well; those aren't rocket science. (From Parts Connexion I'd get Mills 7.5 ohm 12W (x 4) and 20 ohm (x 2) for the resistors, and from PE I'd be doubling up the numbers and capacitance of the 2, 6, 12 and 14 uF caps, and getting four 50W 8 phm L Pads (PE 260-252 or 260-255 L pads). Then I'd just need some 9V battery clips (PE 140-982; one for LF and one for HF) and some 3 (?) megohm resistors, for charging. I'm inclined to use Jantzen (metallized polypropylene) 400V Cross-Caps without bypasses for the capacitors; not too expensive.)

I also think I'm OK with L102 (2.6 mH; 0.507 ohms DCR) (Zilch suggests PE# 255-434 (Jantzen 2.7mH 15 AWG) - he removed 6 turns from the outside to reduce it 2.6 mH.)

But L1 and L2 seem a little problematic, so:

- As to L1, it should be 0.04 mH (0.143 ohms DCR) – The OEM part from an old 2001 parts list is 61014-0R04 ($11.19) --apparently it was listed under “miscellaneous” –- but does JBL still sell it? I guess I can ask them. Alternatively, Zilch said this coil should be 20 or 22 gauge - He suggested Jantzen #1318; 0.047 mH, 0.17 ohms. He said to unwind it down to 0.04 mH, and the resistance will be correct at 0.15 ohms. But I can't find this anywhere in the U.S. Maybe I should use PE 255-200 (Jantzen 0.05 mH 18 AWG (0.09 ohms DCR)) and add a small resistor in series?

- As to L2, it should be 1.6 mH (0.429 ohms DCR). I could opt for a Jantzen 1.8 mH and unwind it to 1.6, but which version: The 15 AWG (0.42 ohms) or 18 AWG (0.74 ohms)? (PE 255-264 or 255-428). (Zilch removed 14 turns from the outside to reduce the Jantzen 1.8 mH to 1.6 mH.)

- I guess a simpler question is whether after the I get the inductance correct on a coil, I can simply adjust (add up to) the DCR with a resistor in series and have it perform exactly the same as hitting it perfectly with the coil alone.

- Also, how much is an adequate multimeter that reads inductance? My cheapo does not.

- And is it worth springing for fancier caps like Audiocap Thetas, for the smaller values (2 and 6 uF; doubled up in value and number for biasing)? That could add some major expense.

Thanks!