L150's woofers glued in!

[4313B]

I just double-checked the 1/4-20 bolts on four different 128H frames. The bolts screwed right in to two of the frames and were too small for the other two frames...

[jay]

Thanks G, that helps!

Jay

[porschedpm]

Hey, Jay. Did you ever get the woofers out. If so how'd you do it.

[jay]

Porschedpm,

Uh, well it's like this...

First, a friend dropped off a pair of Phase Linear P-530's for a long term listening session. If you're not familair with them, they're kind of an 'improved' Pioneer HPM-100, but with Pioneer TAD type drivers. They do sound great, so that's been a distraction.

Most critically though, I discovered that one L150 has two stripped screw "T-nuts", you know, the part that's in the MDF and accepts the hold down screw? One stripped T-nut is in the woofer, one in the passive!
So even if the silicone sealer came unstuck, there's still the problem of getting either of those loose.

Will it ever end?.....

[mech986]

Hi Jay, Sorry to hear of your dilema. At this point, it really sounds like you're going to have to come from the rear to get access to the screws. I'll bet the screws that are stripped (or that the T-nut has lost grip with the baffle) are one of the lower ones on each driver. I was going to suggest taking the tweeter out but then you'd need a long arm to reach down to the top woofer screws and you still wont get to the lower woofer screws.

Looks like you'll have to knock out the rear connector panel first to see if that gives you enough access to the woofer and passive screws/t-nuts. A well placed vise-grip on the loose t-nut then braced on the frame may allow you to get it loosened without a helper, otherwise engage someone to help - one to hold the grips and the other to unscrew the driver - you should make this one the first to come out. If you can then take out the driver, then access to the passive will be easier. STill, you do have the problem of breaking the silicone seal.

Hope this still encourages you.

Bart

[Titanium Dome]

Well, that sucks.

If you can get the thin blade of an upholsetry tack remover under the head of the screw, then use the blade's offset to force the screw upward as you turn it counterclockwise. Again, protect all surfaces and your eyes. This may require some serious pressure to get the nut's lateral friction high enough that it will stop rotating and release the screw.

[DMMD]

STOP!

Don't go in from the back plate or bang on it. Most of the post terminals are mounted to the crossover on the L150/L150A. I did see one pair with the crossovers mounted near the top of the cabinet... just check for the location first- that's the point. Don't assume a swift tap will just pop the staples and give you an armhole like on many of the small monitors.

Doing so on my L150A cabs would be a disaster. I'd experiment with the passive first... it's less valuable and more forgiving. Good luck.

The putty knife would have worked.... if only the T-nut was still solid!