Here is the parts list, and a hand drawn diagram that I used as a guide to assemble my crossover boards. I labled each part with the same ID number that appears in the parts list and in the
schematic that I originally posted. I hope this helps. The arrows drawn through the inductors show the orientation of the hole (in the air core inductors), and in the steel laminate core where the steel bar runs.
Yes, I do have the photo on my camera. My home email set up is poor, so I scanned the drawing. I'll work on posting the photo.
The parts list shows two lists, with less expensive bipolar electrolytic caps used for the 2 largest caps shown on top, and with the somewhat more expensive Dayton metalized polypropylene (MPP) caps shown below. Take your pick, they should sound similar. I splurged and used the MPP caps.
I removed the woofer and disconnected the wires from its terminals. On my speakers, the woofer had similar spring-loaded connectors as on the back of the cabinet. I did not remove the midrange or tweeter, but instead cut the wires connecting them to the old crossover. I left those wires attached to the speakers as long as possible. I identified the plus wires by the 1.5 volt battery method as I described in my original post. I left the old crossover in place.
All the hookup wire I used was 16 gauge. Using larger gauge makes life very difficult during assembly and IMHO is not worth the trouble. JBL used even smaller wires than 16 g.
I also used a terminal strip on the board to help with all the connections, but this is not required.