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Thread: C-60 Sovereign restoration

  1. #16
    Senior Member saeman's Avatar
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    C60 Sovereign Restoration

    Hi Johnny: Polyeurethane varnish is just where the varnish industry has gone in recent years. It's nothing special and very common. Claimed to wear well, exibits good resistance to moisture and is poly (plastic) based in composition. It's available in different drying times and in different finish sheens. For your purposes on this project, ANY varnish (not Laquer) will do the job but get one that has a slow dry time, and thin the first coat, to allow maximum penetration into the P.B. Put the second coat on heavier with no thin added. Make sure the second coat is MAX dry and then block sand to a flat surface. It's possible that a third coat might be possible. I'm sure that you'll be pleased with the results. Regards - Rick

  2. #17
    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    In Europe it is more commonly reffered to as Urethane product. Do you have that available? Europeans are ahead when it comes to switching over to the less toxic products and tend to use the waterbased topcoats.

  3. #18
    Senior Member saeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer
    In Europe it is more commonly reffered to as Urethane product. You have that right?
    Hi Audiobeer - We need to hook up some day - we're only a few hours down the road from each other and we share two similar passions - SPEAKERS and WOOD.

  4. #19
    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    Sorry Riessen. I didn't see your post when I started the reply. What he said!

  5. #20
    Senior Member saeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer
    Sorry Riessen. I didn't see your post when I started the reply. What he said!
    The More The Merrier or If One Opinion Is Good, Two Is Better or or or or or

  6. #21
    Senior Member Audiobeer's Avatar
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    We will have to get together some time. Are you in Missouri, Il, or Kansas?

  7. #22
    Senior Member saeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audiobeer
    We will have to get together some time. Are you in Missouri, Il, or Kansas?
    Beer: I'm in Illinois, SW of Chicago. Only about 4 - 4 1/2 hours from Bush Stadium.

  8. #23
    RIP 2011 Zilch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yggdrasil
    The drivers have signs of moist. The bullet on the 075's do not shine at all. The aluminum ring just under the back cap of both the 375's and LE15's have yellow fine flourish substance on them.

    Any thoughts?
    Use 3M "Scotchbrite" metal finishing pad. A small piece (1" X 2") will let you control where you're polishing.

    The yellow or white powdery corrosion is common. It comes off easily.

    I would avoid opening the drivers if at all possible....

  9. #24
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zilch
    Use 3M "Scotchbrite" metal finishing pad. A small piece (1" X 2") will let you control where you're polishing.

    The yellow or white powdery corrosion is common. It comes off easily.

    I would avoid opening the drivers if at all possible....
    Thanks, will look for it later today.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  10. #25
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by riessen
    Hi Johnny: Polyeurethane varnish is just where the varnish industry has gone in recent years. It's nothing special and very common. Claimed to wear well, exibits good resistance to moisture and is poly (plastic) based in composition. It's available in different drying times and in different finish sheens. For your purposes on this project, ANY varnish (not Laquer) will do the job but get one that has a slow dry time, and thin the first coat, to allow maximum penetration into the P.B. Put the second coat on heavier with no thin added. Make sure the second coat is MAX dry and then block sand to a flat surface. It's possible that a third coat might be possible. I'm sure that you'll be pleased with the results. Regards - Rick
    Ok. Have contacted a norwegian paint producer. Will have to wait and see if I get an answer.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  11. #26
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    urethanes

    You can also get expoxies that would work. Very, very thin, so it soaks into the PB and bonds everthing together. In the U.S. you can W.E.S.T. Sytem products. (W.E.S.T. = Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique). It was developed for marine use, i.e., strip building.

    http://www.westsystem.com/

    Bruce
    Last edited by bbrown; 06-10-2005 at 07:12 AM. Reason: to add link

  12. #27
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    I had already sprayed 3 coats of oil-based black matt paint on them. It was very thinned and soaked in well. After almost a week of hardening - the result is good.


    I have started sanding on the top. One is very nice. The other one has a few loooong scratches. The grain has been cut. On some places probably through the veneer. Any advice?

    On the second picture you see that some areas of the edge is gone. Any advice?
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    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  13. #28
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    I just finished sanding today.

    We have had some cold days now, so I got a lot of hours in the workshop.

    Underneath the lacquer I found several wounds in the veneer. They were probably there from factory (see picture 2).

    Anyway I have filled all the wounds.
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    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  14. #29
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    Drivers cleaned. Woofers refoamed.

    Had to break the red wax seals on one of the 075's to clean the gap.
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    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  15. #30
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    That's a happy wife!

    Small speakers does the trick every time...
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    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

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