4411 clones

[duaneage]

I am going to build a pair of 4411 clones, thanks to a forum member offering me a pair of 044 tweeters I can build what I want instead of mixing together different drivers. I have not seen a pair of 4411 speakers up close in 2 decades so I am am hoping I can get some help from the forum on a few things,

Were the front baffles painted or was a vinyl veneer applied? What was the original finish like. smooth or textured?

Was the rear of the cabinet flush or indented 1/4 inch?

I already have the box vulume and porting dimentions worked out, I am using 1.6 cu ft with a 3 inch tube. I would like to use furniture grade plywood for the sides rather than MDF, I will use MDF for the front and back. I hope the plywood does not adversely affect the sound too much.

If anyone can post pictures or help me with some front baffle distances I would appreciate it. I will post some pictures of this as I go along, should be interesting.

[Akira]

if you need further info post...i've owned these speakers for 8 years and never really got into them so there's not a lot i could tell you...except measurement. good luck with your project. everyone here would enjoy pic updates.

[DMMD]

if you need further info post...i've owned these speakers for 8 years and never really got into them so there's not a lot i could tell you....

Well, I guess you can send them to me.... I love 'em.

[duaneage]

I noticed the foam around the grill frame. Is that original or was it added later? My 128H woofers have foam surrounds instead of accordian, are your woofers 123s?


I am making mirror image pairs for improved imaging. I had to move the midrange away from the woofer slightly to allow the midrange enclosure to fit behind.

I'll get some pics of it so far. don't think i'll use blue cloth, WAF is higher for black

[Lancer]

No wonder he isn't too wild about the 4411, his have the wrong woofers...
I wonder what bright bulb put those in there...

[Akira]

No wonder he isn't too wild about the 4411, his have the wrong woofers...
I wonder what bright bulb put those in there...

don't know much about this series 4310 offspring...i do know that the bass and mid sound really good, very tight well defined and clear, quite a surprise when tested in open air. hate the metalic sound of the 044HF's.

so what are the proper drivers? these are 2213H @ 8ohms

[duaneage]

The correct woofers are the 128H series. They have a foam surround and work really well in small boxes considering they are 12 inch woofers.

How deep does that 3 inch port go into the box? How long to you figure it is.?

[Akira]

the port is exactly 6" deep (end to baffel) and uses the popular 3" diameter tube.
this 12" sounds great. i would never trade in the accordian style surround. stiffness limitations aside...30 plus years of life.

[duaneage]

Long time no update.

I finished the project after a delay in getting the tweeters.

[duaneage]

Da otha 1

[duaneage]

I did a few things differently from the originals.


The duct tubes were made from 3 inch pvc elbows. I cut out the middle 6 inches so the port would curve in and down . This puts the opening of the port 1.5 inches from any cabinet wall and reduces high power compression. The foilcals were placed at the edge of the cabinet rather than 3/8" in. I like the look of the foilcals being on the edge although the cabinets had to be routed out for the controls.

The baffle is on top of the sides rather than being framed. This looks cleaner than exposed wood edges framing the baffle and is a favorite technique of mine.

The midrange is flush routed to the cabinet as well as the 128. I am going to shim the 128 out 3/16" though because it is difficult to remove once in the cabinet. But Ido like the flush mounting so I may keep it.

I used stainless steel hardwre for the driver mounting, i have to paint over the tweeter screws yet.

I have not made grills yet. Waiting for a rainy day for that project.

[duaneage]

The port seamlessly blends into the baffle board, I think better than the originals. I cut a 3 inch hole through the front then a 3 1/4" relief on the baffle board rear was made so the pvc pipe slips into the rear tightly. Gorilla glue was used to glue the pipe in place. After the glue dried I used a Dremel tool to sand flush the baffle with the opening. The result is a professional looking port transistion

[duaneage]

The sides are made with 3/4 inch red oak plywood. I think the MDF is a better choice acoustically but the plywood was acquire real cheap and I wanted to try it. I used a rather dark stain, two treatments, to give it a walnut appearance. I was warned that there would be a red tint but I don't notice any. One downer iturned out to be glue on the veneer that came through as light patches. I guess I could sand them doen again and restain, If anyone has an opinion on doing that let me know.