Thanks for the plinth description. I like the puck idea as well. Thank you.
Thanks for the plinth description. I like the puck idea as well. Thank you.
Here is a view of the front. I used 1" MDF. I bought it at Southern Lumber in San Jose. Enough for two cabinets cost $110. This included them cutting it in their mill shop. That was the smartest thing I did all year. They say they cut within 1/8", but by my measurements they nailed every cut.
Here's a view of the back with the 1/4-20 anchors backed out. The back anchors to 2x2 frame and T-Nuts. I used black oxide 1/4-20 sockets throughout. I got them at Fastenal.com. Great place for fasteners.
As you can see I'm waiting for the delivery of the Wrap-On insulation (as recommended). Is it here yet? Is it here yet? Is it here yet?
I mounted the dividers with 10-32 T-Nuts. That's oxgen free (I pretend it makes a difference) 14ga RCA audio wire. Home Depot sells it for $14 for 50 feet. I tinned the ends. I selected 14ga as it was the biggest that would fit in the JBL terminals.
Here's a shot of one of the two ports from the outside and inside showing the rabited (sp?) mount. I am now officially in love with plunge routers and circle jigs. A friend loaned me his Port-Cable plunge router with a large circle jig. I used this for the LE15A whole. I then bought a small circle jig from Wood Crafter for about $30. Money well spent. I used the small jig for the 375, 075 and port wholes.
All exterior joints are simple butt joints with no fasteners. I used a bunch clamps and Tightbond II glue. After removing the clamps I then glued in these corner braces and secured them with brads (using a brad gun...very handy...just like Norm Abrams).
Hi Val, they look nice. What are you going to finish the cabinets with. Furniture grade laminate or paint
There are two vertical kiln dried 2x4's to stiffen the sides. I used these great screws from OSH called Spax to attach the 2x4's along with some Liquid Nails. The Spax fasteners are like dry wall screws but are stronger and designed for MDF (among other materials). To the vertical braces I attached another 2x4 to support the ginormous 375 magnet structure. Then, taking GordonW's advice, I fashioned a U-Bolt from 10-32 threaded rod covered with shrink tube. I used jell-nuts so they won't loosen under stress. The cross brace also further stiffens the enclosure.
Somewhere I read that you can get clean corners by glueing up with about 1/16" overhang. After the glue sets you come back with a cut-off bit in a router and trim off the excess. This turns out to be a way cool way to obtain an nice corner.
If you paint them you might want to use a 1/4 round router bit to soften the hard edges.
I plan to finish them with paint to match our living room (maximizing the WAF). Dutch Boy makes some textured finishes that I think I might try. I'm open to suggestions. I've decided that my life is too short to take on vaneer. I will be rounding the corners with a 1/2" roundover bit.
I'm getting some whistle around my 075. How do you seal those?
Val, check this out. www.plasti-kote.com for some spray stone finishes and colors
Val, as far as I can see you should use mounting bolts thur the front to nly lock nuts on the back plate. MDF does not hold screws very well with any kind of tension. Did you tighten in the cross pattern configuration
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