Awesome job Rick!!! The camel is sweet against the rosewood. You inspire me to build my own too. Thanks for sharing your expertise and creativity.
Awesome job Rick!!! The camel is sweet against the rosewood. You inspire me to build my own too. Thanks for sharing your expertise and creativity.
Rick,
Beautiful job! The camel grille cloth was an inspired choice. I wouldn't have thought it would work, but seeing is believing. The rosewood you use in your projects always has beautiful figure and tones. Where do you get your veneer?
"Zobel is as zobel does"
Hi Uncle Paul - Thanks for your comments. I've always admired the camel grille color but have never owned a system using it. We've all seen camel on the L300's and others. Rosewood and camel were both options when ordering the L250's and B460 but you rarely see them this way. Brown cloth was standard and that's what you usually see on the B460. After saying goodbye to the rosewood 4350B's I needed to get some rosewood back in the house so the choice was easy.Originally Posted by Uncle Paul
Monitor blue cloth is by far my favorite but I'm having visions of putting these 4344's in the living room (wife's turf) and she's already said the camel looks great. Blue is a guy color and even though I am generally not plagued with the WAF syndrome, putting blue clothed speakers in her living room will likely not fly.
I usually get my veneer from Oakwood Veneer in the Detroit area - call by noon and it will ship that day. www.oakwoodveneer.com This rosewood came from a local wood work supplier and not Oakwood. Cost was under $3 a square foot and the quality has been real good. Rosewood from Oakwood runs $5 to $7 a square. Their product quality is unbeatable and I generally order from them.
Rick
As someone who has worked with several screen printers... I'd recommend just ordering the ones from Japan... I have had to send back and pay for so many redos, mental frustration, etc. The color will be wrong, then there is dust in the ink, then they screw it up some way you never expected...
$50 for a badge is a bit steep, but if they are quality...
Widget
Another pic with the components installed.
Hi Widget: I hear you and also expect to have some initial grief with the silkscreen project. I'm a ways into the effort with a ton of artwork already complete. The screener I have dialed in will make a sample run for me here soon and then I'll know if I can use him or seek another. There's a boatload of screeners in Chicago. I'm confident someone will come thru. I'll keep you posted. Rick
Very sexy
riessen,
Again, lovely! I am planning a similar build project and I have a couple of questions:
1. The bracing looks to be 2X4's- Is this correct? Did the original use 1X for bracing? If this is an upgrade in bracing material- will it effect the overall internal volume of the cab to any significant degree?
2. Baffles. In an old thead of pics showing Bo's 4345's- his front baffle looks like plywood. Your front baffle is MDF- yet your rear baffle assembly looks like plywood. I'm confused: Is this a departure from the original (?) or is this just one of the build differences in monitor models??
3. If the rear baffle assembly is in fact plywood- what did you use? Exterior grade or marine grade?
4. The recess routed out for the slots (in the backside of the front baffle) is 1/4" to allow a 1/4" protrusion, correct? Is this protrusion value a standard for slots?
5. What is the space surrounding the slot cut-out? 1/16"? 1/8"? (Can't really tell by the pics...)
6. T-nuts or hurricanes?
7. Were all braces glued on the sides it made contact, or would this be overkill??
8. Were braces screwed from the ends (through the baffles) and countersunk/filled? Is this overkill as well?
I'm sorry to plague you with questions, I just want to do it properly!!!
Thanks so much for any and all replies!!
[QUOTE=riessen]Hi Widget: I hear you and also expect to have some initial grief with the silkscreen project. I'm a ways into the effort with a ton of artwork already complete. The screener I have dialed in will make a sample run for me here soon and then I'll know if I can use him or seek another. There's a boatload of screeners in Chicago. I'm confident someone will come thru. I'll keep you posted. Rick[/QUOTE]
Riessen,
If your silkscreener wants to batch these out to you- I may be interested in purchasing a few pairs if it helps you offset the costs. Let me know via PM and include all associated prices. I would (additionally) like to know the silkscreener you chose should this be successful as I may need other ones done. Thanks!
I have purchased a 4 x 8 sheet of .064 aluminum for the project (grille badges). That will yield near 300 badges. As many as I want for myself I can't even put a dent in that many. I am planning on 10% to 15% waste between the base coat painter and the screener. That still leaves a bunch. I will keep what I want, offer some to forum guys at one price and ebay the balance at another price. I'm not close enough at this point for anyone to get real excited about it.
As soon as I get a quality sample from the screener I will then cut the sheet in to individual badges (several sizes) and have most of them base coated black so they are ready for screening. At that point I'll make a post and determine forum member interest.
2x4's??? Your eye glass perscription needs to be upgraded!! I used 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" douglas fir. Factory 4344's used 1" x 3" brace material. My bracing takes up a little more volume but I doubt I'll hear any difference. 1x3 is more time consuming and expensive to produce.
On their Pro Monitor line (43XX Series) JBL used varying materials and thicknesses for their baffles and cabinet backs.2. Baffles. In an old thead of pics showing Bo's 4345's- his front baffle looks like plywood. Your front baffle is MDF- yet your rear baffle assembly looks like plywood. I'm confused: Is this a departure from the original (?) or is this just one of the build differences in monitor models??
4331A/B, 4333A/B, 4345, 4350, 4350B and 4355 used 3/4" baltic birch for the baffle. 4340, 4341, 4343 and 4344 used 1" P.B. (not MDF) for the baffle.
4331A/B, 4333A/B, 4350 and 4350B used 3/4"baltic birch for their backs. 1" P.B. was used for the back on the 4340, 4341, 4343, 4344, 4345 and 4355.
The back on my 4344's is 3/4" baltic birch with 1/4" textured plastic/luan laminated to it for a 1" thich rear panel.3. If the rear baffle assembly is in fact plywood- what did you use? Exterior grade or marine grade? ??
No recess cut in the rear of the baffle for the 2405. If you see it protruding then the baffle is 3/4" thick. If it's flush then the baffle is 1" thick.4. The recess routed out for the slots (in the backside of the front baffle) is 1/4" to allow a 1/4" protrusion, correct? Is this protrusion value a standard for slots?
All monitors built with 1" baffles had a recess cut from the rear to bring the front edge of the horn (2307, 2311) flush with the baffle face.
No space around the slot. The cutout hole varies from 3 3/16" diameter to 3 1/4". I cut a very slight chamfer around the front edge of the cutout, which in the pics make the hole look larger - it's not.5. What is the space surrounding the slot cut-out? 1/16"? 1/8"? (Can't really tell by the pics...)
JBL used T-Nuts everywhere6. T-nuts or hurricanes?
All braces were glued and screwed to their respective panels - by JBL and me. Braces were installed on the panels before cabinet assembly. To allow easy assembly the braces were commonly cut a bit short in length so as not to jamb between the baffle and back during assembly. If you look inside a vintage monitor you will commonly see places where thin wedges were driven in between the baffle and brace end and/or the back and brace end, with glue. This practice stiffened every thing up. Over time and lots of heavy rockin and rollin these wedges are known to come loose and float around inside the cabinet.7. Were all braces glued on the sides it made contact, or would this be overkill??
On the very early monitors that I have seen (4340, 4341, 4350), JBL screwed thru the baffle and back panels into the braces. This practice was dropped shortly into production. They simply used a countersunk flat head phillips head screw, flush with the panel and left showing. To my knowledge they never spent any time trying to hide any of the screws with plugs sanded flush.8. Were braces screwed from the ends (through the baffles) and countersunk/filled? Is this overkill as well?
That's all I know - Rick
2x4's??? Your eye glass perscription needs to be upgraded!!
Lol. Perhaps I was mesmerized by those pics! Well, in my defense- milled 2X4’s end up measuring about 1½ X 3½ - So I wasn’t that far off…
I used 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" douglas fir. Factory 4344's used 1" x 3" brace material. My bracing takes up a little more volume but I doubt I'll hear any difference. 1x3 is more time consuming and expensive to produce.
Agreed- 1X3’s suck. Seems like a flimsy width for driving screws into anyways. I’ll do what you did!!
On their Pro Monitor line (43XX Series) JBL used varying materials and thicknesses for their baffles and cabinet backs.
4331A/B, 4333A/B, 4345, 4350, 4350B and 4355 used 3/4" baltic birch for the baffle. 4340, 4341, 4343 and 4344 used 1" P.B. (not MDF) for the baffle.
4331A/B, 4333A/B, 4350 and 4350B used 3/4"baltic birch for their backs. 1" P.B. was used for the back on the 4340, 4341, 4343, 4344, 4345 and 4355.
Got it. Thanks! Oops- MDF wasn’t even around yet. My bad.
The back on my 4344's is 3/4" baltic birch with 1/4" textured plastic/luan laminated to it for a 1" thich rear panel.
Cool. Thanks.
No recess cut in the rear of the baffle for the 2405. If you see it protruding then the baffle is 3/4" thick. If it's flush then the baffle is 1" thick.
All monitors built with 1" baffles had a recess cut from the rear to bring the front edge of the horn (2307, 2311) flush with the baffle face.
OK. Thanks.
No space around the slot. The cutout hole varies from 3 3/16" diameter to 3 1/4". I cut a very slight chamfer around the front edge of the cutout, which in the pics make the hole look larger - it's not.
Ahhh. That’s it.Got it. Thanks!
JBL used T-Nuts everywhere
I prefer hurricanes. Then again, T-nuts weren’t exactly a big problem for older JBL’s; Why not stick with what works….
All braces were glued and screwed to their respective panels - by JBL and me. Braces were installed on the panels before cabinet assembly. To allow easy assembly the braces were commonly cut a bit short in length so as not to jamb between the baffle and back during assembly. If you look inside a vintage monitor you will commonly see places where thin wedges were driven in between the baffle and brace end and/or the back and brace end, with glue. This practice stiffened every thing up. Over time and lots of heavy rockin and rollin these wedges are known to come loose and float around inside the cabinet.
That’s a great thing to know; and a cool trick! Thank you!!
On the very early monitors that I have seen (4340, 4341, 4350), JBL screwed thru the baffle and back panels into the braces. This practice was dropped shortly into production. They simply used a countersunk flat head phillips head screw, flush with the panel and left showing. To my knowledge they never spent any time trying to hide any of the screws with plugs sanded flush.
So long as a screw was used there. I was thinking it had to be. I just never saw any heads (except for maybe two- one left, and one right inside the baffle edge). I’ll do the same.
That's all I know – Rick
I hardly doubt that!
You've certainly helped me out- and maybe it helps others. Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions. I can only hope my project turns out half as nice as yours!
Regards- Mike.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote