4320 Project

[grumpy]

Nice project. Thanks for sharing the in-progress pics! -grumpy

[Zilch]

Hi, Heather, and thanks for posting pics of your project!

If you haven't come across it yet, there's a chain of threads over in DIY for a potential crossover incorporating the 3106, still a work in progress, beginning here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=8507

For the bottom line, you can also jump to the latest thread here:

http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...ead.php?t=9221

Once work on the basic crossover is complete, a 10 kHz version for 077/2405 seems a logical next step....

[MORE pics, please. Yup, yup!]

I followed a tip from Zilch and built a pair of 3106 crossovers to tie to the high output of the exisiting crossovers in the box, but I had almost no output on the 2405 slots....

I have minimal test gear these days....

If you'd like me to check out your DIY 3106's with 2405's, PM me for the address to send 'em.

[hjames]

I took my 2405's downstairs and substituted them for the tweeters in a pair of Optimus 3 ways and they worked fine - so I know the slot-tweeters work fine. The 2420 horns and 2215 woofs had worked fine when I used the systems in their original 2 way config for the first weeks, so I figure thats all fine.

The 3106 crossovers I built I had connect to the hi output of the original 3110 crossovers that came with the system didn't seem to work, and it was consistant no matter which one I put on either speaker - so I tried something new. I'm running the speakers in conventional mode with a standard 110w/ch JVC receiver, no bi or tri-amping at the moment ...

I bought a pair of L166 (3way) crossovers off ebay ... the low cross is at 1k, the high cross at 6k (lower than I want, but its a test), and dropped them as the only network in the boxes. The speakers worked fine using them, but now I know what folks mean about harshness using the slots at the lower end of their range - I think I prefer feeding more of the mids through the horns.
I dropped the 3110s back into the box, and fed the high output of those into the L166 networks. I dropped the lowpass (woofer leg) off the L166, and just used the mid and high output of them ... its closer, but I think I need to rework them and get the high cross up near 10k.

I can gut them and use the precision resisters and the 4 JBL style Lpads to build better networks - once I learn what caps and chokes to use for the mid and high legs of the new 3way ... but I have to find time for that ...

I got the JBL cloth from Zilch and bought a pile of pine lumber to build the griills - fortunately our cats don't seem to have cone destroyer tendencies - but we spent this weekend clearing the garden for spring plantings - and hoping we don't get a final snow before winter formally ends. Of course anything is possible in the DC area ... sigh ...
Hopefully I'll get back to the crossover work soon ...

[jbl4ever]

Hello hjames, can you post a picture of the 2405 diaphrams front and back. They look like aftermarket by the one picture. Hard to tell. If they
are aftermarket ones the impedance will most likely be different than stock. A impedance curve would be needed to properly design the new circuit for this.

[hjames]

Hello hjames, can you post a picture of the 2405 diaphrams front and back. They look like aftermarket by the one picture. Hard to tell. If they are aftermarket ones the impedance will most likely be different than stock. A impedance curve would be needed to properly design the new circuit for this.

Not easily - I'd have to pull the woofers to gain access to the drivers, unmount the 2405s, then tear down a working driver.

In truth, I'd rather build the crossovers as if they were the right (JBL) diaphrams - once money is a bit less dear I may send the 2405s out for JBL pro rebuilds anyway, and if I build networks specifically for the aftermarket parts, I'd just have to redo the networks when I change.

I got the 2405s on ebay - the deal was they needed diaphrams installed and a new pair of diaphrams were provided to install. Knowing that any set I bought on eBay have worn or tired diaphrams anyway, they were cheaper than most others pairs offered. From the price of JBL diaphrams, (provided free with the 2405s) I'll assume they are aftermarket.
The diaphrams were sealed in clear plastic trays numbered DWT044S-8.


3110 Crossover LF out to 2215 woof, MF out to L166 Crossover
L166 Crossover LF leg (choke) removed - MF & HF only used
2215 15" woofer
2420 MF driver
2405 HF driver

[hjames]

I've got a quick question. I've seen the reference to Charge Coupled crossover networks quite a few times in these forums - this is something you do for bi-amped systems right? I mean, you are doing this fancy crossover at a 1v P-P preamp output signal level, correct?
The crossover pictured on the perfboard at http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/s...1&postcount=28 doesn't look beefy enough for the 200+ wpc power levels you folks run these speakers at ...
I ask because I want to build crossovers for the L300 equivs I am building from my 4320 speakers (2215, 2420, 2405) - and I want to be sure I'm using the right specs to do so.
Thanks for the info!

[Mr. Widget]

I've got a quick question. I've seen the reference to Charge Coupled crossover networks quite a few times in these forums - this is something you do for bi-amped systems right?

Nope.

The charge coupled crossovers are standard passive networks being powered by your amplifier. The charge coupling means that they have a DC offset voltage that is reported to lower some forms of distortion caused by the capacitors. I have no personal experience with them, but the people who have tried them really do rave about them.


Widget