Zilch
You are right. The stock 2344 horn does not have ports. The 2344 is a two part horn assembly, the 2344A is a single part assembly. The 2344A has a tendancy of breaking at the throat if not handled gently. I have a pair of each in my two sets of 4430 clones. I cannot tell any differrence in sound quality between the two versions of 2344s but I prefer the first version for their durability.
The 4320 / L200s are some home brews that somebody made I would guess close to 35 years ago. They have all the drivers of a 4320 - 16 ohm system with a 3115 - 500 Hz crossover in L200 style cabinets. Yah, they should sound like crap and they did before I re-ported them, but they are now surprisingly good. The mid range bloom may not be accurate but it sure makes horns and vocals sound great. They are not as accurate, well controlled or have as good bass extension as my 4430 clones but as I keep saying "what a midrange". I spent my mis-spent youth sneaking in the back door of bars, honky tonks and rural dance halls (because I was under age) playing with blues rock bands and those horns and vocals on the old home brews sure sound like live horns and vocals to me. It makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up - just like the old days. Hey go figure - sometimes thing that are not logical work very well for a specific purpose.
I would not trade my 4430s for the old home brews but for my next speaker build project I would like to recreate some of the mid range magic of the old home brews.
Toddalin
Thanks for the information on the P Audio PH230 horns. Do you have a suggestion for an adapter to use for attaching these horns to a standard 3 bolt 1 inch JBL driver like a 2420 or 2426?
By the way I was rescued from my own stupidity by blind luck on the PH316 horn. I ordered them on line from a supplier who had them listed on their website. They phoned me this morning and the PH316 is no longer available.
I have had some private mail suggestions from form members that indicate that the characteristic mid range bloom on the old home brews is partly due to the crossover point being 500 Hz. They have suggested that I use a 1.5 or 2.0 inch MF driver and a HF driver if I want to recreate the mid range characteristics of the old home brews but with far more accuracy and control.