Yes, normal wood glue (water based) on both sides, wait to dry, and then using the iron. Verey easy.Originally Posted by Val
A big thanks to Yggdrasil for the info.
Rolf
Yes, normal wood glue (water based) on both sides, wait to dry, and then using the iron. Verey easy.
A big thanks to Yggdrasil for the info.
Rolf
To all:
More pics as the progress is moving on...
Rolf
What temperature for the iron?Yes, normal wood glue (water based) on both sides, wait to dry, and then using the iron. Verey easy.
A big thanks to Yggdrasil for the info.
Rolf
Synthetics
Cotton
Linnen
Great work Rolf.
I used Linnen.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
I have read about using that method... I have been concerned about blisters forming over time. Johnny, have you had any pieces that you have done with this technique fail? Do you have any pieces that are say 10-20 years old?
Widget
Hi Widget. Note that I am using a special product. The venieer is allready fixed to a back side of a non-woven material. I guess a more expencive solution, but much easyer for a amature.
The picture tells the name of the product.
Rolf
funny to see an instruction sheet for the veneer in Dutch!
should you have any problems, send me a copy and I can translate it should you want
in english, not in norwegian that is...
edit >> the part I can read says not to use water based glue in any case, but that is exactly what you have done!
frank
The sheet also include english, and I know that it say: not to use water based glue. They recommend contact glue, but as you know one mistake with that, and "good night".
After a talk with the importer they said "ok". They had never been thinking about using wood glue on both sides, let it dry, and melt it with a hot iron.
Rolf
A quick lookup shows that the "decoflex" veneer manufacturer is Belgian,
it can be found here : http://www.decospan.com
Hi Widget: I can't show you any work that's 20 years old but I have been using this method for a long time with good results. For what it's worth, here's a few comments on problems I have encountered.
1. I have used paper back veneer, bubble free and phenolic backed veneers. Paper backed is the easiest to work with as it is thinner material. Phenolic backed resembles formica in overall thickness. It bonds well but since it is thicker it's harder to make sure there are no voids or bad bond spots.
2. I have talked a lot about buying some kind of commercial heating iron and never have. My wife's clothes iron works great and she hates to use it anyway. Her current iron used to be teflon coated but I've worn patches of the teflon off pressing veneer.
3. Temp setting is about 1/3 of max for most household irons, or about 160 degrees max. Too much heat and you will melt and puddle the glue under the veneer - TROUBLE - if this happens you need to turn the heat way way down and slowly dry the glue again. All you need is enough heat to re-activate the glue to allow both glued surfaces to bond (just like two surfaces coated with comtact cement.
4. Going over the veneer with a hot iron is not enough. More pressure is required to ensure a solid bond. Heat about 1 square foot at a time and immediately (while the surface is still damn hot to the palm of your hand) roll over that area with a 4" veneer roller applying all the pressure you can. Roll slowly and listen for any crackling sounds. Roll with the grain and then roll side to side against the grain. If you hear crackling it indicates that the veneer is lifting. Heat - roll - heat - roll, until there is no crackling to be heard. After doing the whole surface go aroung all edges again. Let that panel/side sit for several hours and then trim off excess veneer. Then go over the whole surface again slowly with the roller and listen for any crackling. After sitting for a while if the bond is not good it will lift. If this problem occurs hit it with the heat again. I have always used Titebond II and have heated and reactivated as long as two days after laying the veneer.
5. After you have trimmed off excess veneer - take your thumb and fan the entire edge (like you would shuffle thru pages in a book or a deck of cards) and listen for spots where the veneer is loose around the edge. Heat and roll any you find.
6. Bubbles under the veneer usually happen when too much heat is applied. With some practice everyone using this method will find their own settings. Not enough heat and your veneer will be crackling under the roller until your supper is cold. TOO MUCH heat will melt the glue and quite often cause bubbles. If you have a bubble that persists, it can be sliced open using a thin blade modeling knife. Let any trapped air escape, roll the hell out of it and apply less heat in that area to get a bond.
7. Applying the glue - I apply 2 (sometimes 3) coats to each surface using a 4" paint roller. Most veneer manufacturers recommend a 6 to 8 mil glue coating between veneer and substrate. If you skimp and apply only one coat you'll some day, after a big change inhumidity, find your veneer lifting from the surface. Titebond II turns clear when it's dry to the touch. When the first coat is dry you can apply the second/third coat. You can wait as long as a couple of days to apply your veneer but I have had the best results after waiting just an hour or two after the last coat is dry. It will appear dry but you will be able to penetrate the glue with your finger nail and it will feel a bit like a hard rubber surface. If you wait a day or more the glue will be HARD and even though heat will reactivate and bond, I have gotten the best results with the rubber like surface.
That's a lot of rambling and babbling but maybe my techniques will help some of you achieve the results you're looking for. I've had a lot of frustration doing veneer work but have worked out the bugs and have been getting good results.
Buy some veneer and go for it. Rick
Exellent post riessen. This is about the same as I found out, but you gave me a few hints. Thanks
Rolf
Very thorough and good post Rick.
My first project with this technique is only one year old. No new problems yet.
I must admit the first panels was more difficult than the last panels. Mainly due to saving glue. Go with Rick's advice and apply more than one coat, especially to the particle board if that is used.
I also had a few spots with too little glue where I applied glue trhough the veneer using a syringe and thinned glue.
A book on industrial veneering stated that contact glue was only for repair on small spots.
Johnny Haugen Sørgård
The iron I used have 1, 2, 3 dots and max. I used 2,5-3. I used my hand to "feel"the temprature to what I thought would be right. AND IT WAS RIGHT.
Rolf
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