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Thread: 4344 Production Plans

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  1. #1
    Junior Member jblfan's Avatar
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    Ayaboh,

    Very nice work !
    Congratulation !

    Next guy with the same work for 4345 ??
    JBL 250TI (modified)
    2x 20W EL84
    2x 400W MosFet
    CD-722 (Modified)
    Active crossover (below 400Hz)

    LS-22 DIY preamp (in progress)
    Aleph 3 (in progress)
    DAC 5 Audio Note (in progress)


  2. #2
    Member ayaboh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblfan View Post
    Ayaboh,

    Very nice work !
    Congratulation !

    Next guy with the same work for 4345 ??
    Thanks!

    I'm still thinking hard when it comes to the 4345. Maybe I should try to get hold of a couple of 2245s and go for the real thing.

  3. #3
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    If you have the space, then why not go for the 2245's. The cost will be more or less the same.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

  4. #4
    Member ayaboh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by yggdrasil View Post
    If you have the space, then why not go for the 2245's. The cost will be more or less the same.
    Yeah, when you have all the parts, but I have no 2245s at the moment so a 4345 will be more expensive.

    Another thing, what HF driver is best for the 44/45? I have both 2420J and 2425J in very good condition. It has been a lot of disagreement here according to previous posts.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ayaboh View Post
    Another thing, what HF driver is best for the 44/45? I have both 2420J and 2425J in very good condition. It has been a lot of disagreement here according to previous posts.
    Then you can try both and decide for yourself. Early versions used the 2421B and later versions used the 2425J. You may find the 2420 works just fine. The disagreements are based on opinion so form your own.

  6. #6
    Member ayaboh's Avatar
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    Network for the project

    I plan to use Giskards modified 3145 passive network as a starting point for this project, and also use a DSP or digital EQ for room/speaker correction. Is it possible to use only the frequency dividing components in the network, leave the L-Pads out of the circuit, and use the DSP for levelling of the drivers, or is this just BS? Is it better to build complete networks and then add the DSP? Has anyone here tried this, or something similar?

  7. #7
    Super Moderator yggdrasil's Avatar
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    I don't think you can use the DSP to equalize the driver levels when using a passive crossover, since the levels are far apart.

    But you can select a level of padding and do it with fixed resistors to within a couple of dB and let the DSP do the rest.
    Johnny Haugen Sørgård

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