Backyard Box Building - The Build

[macaroonie]

Well, its been a long road trying to get these bad boys to the colour that I wanted. The fuming process whilst seeming to be simple is undoubtedly a combination of experience and environmental factors, heat etc. The first exposure of 24 hrs rendered a colour change to that of milky coffee, but not dark enough. The wood goes a kind of murky grey but when 'wet ' it then adopts the character that we are all familiar with.
At this point I should mention that I tried all sorts of stains on little tester pieces as well as stain after fuming. None seemed to be getting the depth of character that I wanted.
Following a couple of posts from JBLOG I decided to apply the ammonia directly first in dilute form. This started to show results but still not deep enough so it was in feet first with full strength. Wow what a stink it would bring a tear to a glass eye.
Now i was getting somewhere but still a little shy of ideal. It seemed as if the colouration receeded somewhat once the application had dried off.
As it happens I had run out of Ammonia so after a fine sanding it was on with some very dilute spirit stain in a mixed colour to bring the tint into line.
All along I have been keeping a watchful eye in case the rays were getting subdued, but luckily there were no problems.
I am sure any of you that know your way around staining and finishing will know that treating oak in this way is a whole different world from for example oiling only on walnut or rosewood.
Anyway I have posted this for interest sake and I am fairly pleased with the result. It will take a few weeks till the wood settles down, it still looks too hot or new.
The finish after staining was rubbed on polyurethane satin lacquer 3x all round. This has the benefit of hardening the surface. I have yet to steel wool and then wax but will leave that till the finish cures.
The pics show clearly the rays and as you can see it matters where you view them from. The literally shimmer as you move around and this will get better once the are waxed.
Hope you like em

[macaroonie]

Here is a pic or two of side wall bracing. They are just stuck in with solvent based structural adhesive. In the uk Green tube Gripfill or Pinkgrip. Brill stuff that sets up like chewing gum and is as hard to remove.
I'm sure there will be an equivalent in the US and Europe

[macaroonie]

I have been contemplating the port issue for a while as you can see. The Balvenie tubes are 93mm and the Aberlour 10 year old is 82mm.
Due to the intended positioning of these speakers ie in a corner and fairly close to the back wall, I am concerned that the port on the back may excite some boomy resonance. On the other hand I do have some room left either side of the slot tweet so i could use 2 x smaller dia. My concern in that position is just as simple as air blast from the ports messing up the HF.
At a push there is also just enough room for 2 x down below the woof.
Need to scratch the old head for a bit.
Here is a can of worms whilst we are on the subject, has anyone ever investigated using two ports of differing lengths, the idea being to spread the resonance over a wider band ? Alignment wizz's to the rescue on that one, I have not really thought it through it was just a stray thought.

[richluvsound]

Mac ,

I hope you dont have to empty those first.

Waiting for Aquaplas. Its coming this weekend .

Nice job on the cabs by the way.



Rich

[macaroonie]

Not quite there yet as far as finish is concerned. Wool n wax as they say in Barnsley eccky thump. I'm starting to load up now------ watch this space

[loach71]

Mac ,

I hope you dont have to empty those first.

Waiting for Aquaplas. Its coming this weekend .

Nice job on the cabs by the way.



Rich

Hey MAC is a SCOT -- those tubes are "emptied" before they get home from the liquor store... HEH HEH HEH

[macaroonie]

[Krunchy]

Looking Good Mac, Looking real good! How do they sound?
Are ye putting grilles on those bad boys or what, dont see any grille pegs hence my curio.
Nice job!

[richluvsound]

Addy baw bag,

wink wink is the post . Hope you like the colour. Sorry ,I dont do tartan

Rich

[JBL 4645]

macaroonie

Wicked finish mate that looks super grand, how do they sound with music and films, what SPL db they give.

[macaroonie]

Its been a while I know. All the little details take time especially with a one off so here are some more pics to bring things up to date.
Cutting appatures for input panels, done with the same method as the hole for the slot tweet. You have to make the template manually and then you can copy out as many holes as you like. In this case the six mounting holes gives a location for the threaded inserts and socket screws that mount the input panel. Once the main hole is cut the same template can be used to set out the input panel and everything will line up

[macaroonie]

I have used these throughout. I have no liking for T nuts simply because if they come loose inside the cabinet it is the work of the imps to get them unscrewed.
These are very positive in their action and good and strong.
I have used M6 all through which is more or less 1/4" . The countersunk socket head screws are a perfect fit in the 2380 horn.
You can use the horn itelf as a drilling template to get these located correctly- alternatively use the horn to mak up accurately and then use a small pilot drill to start with and then increase your size as needed.

[macaroonie]

Same methods but standard socket head screw.

[macaroonie]

Neoprene seal on horn flange

[macaroonie]

After a lot of searching I stumbled upon this nifty cable from a tour supply company. ( http://www.vdctrading.com/products.a...D=1&Page=2#p14 ) Its called classic black tour grade speaker cable. 6 x 2.5 mm
Remember my set up is to be fully active so I need to connect 3 amplifiers per side. I had looked at using a 4 core cable with a common negative but concluded that that might have been asking for trouble within the amplifier itself.
Last pic you can see the cabinet with wadding installed. I used a cable tacker to keep it all in place.
I am waiting for binding posts to show up so in the meantime I have rigged it up (one only ) with the cable popping in through the port.
Talking of which I finally decided to put the port on the back , mainly because the baffle is so tight for space the port would almost certainly interfere with the grille.
I used the 93mm Balvenie tube at 105mm long gives me the curve shown tuned at 30Hz ( WIN ISD ) I would welcome any input on this from folks with greater experience in these matters. The port can easily be changed.