in the owner manual of dsc280:
19.5
"The DSC 280 has a hidden function called SAFE. SAFE mode is intended to be
used as a complete lock-out for installations or as the ultimate protection for hire
systems etc. When SAFE mode is switched on, all controls are disabled, the screen
blanks and the backlight adjusted to dim. When SAFE mode is switched OFF the
unit returns to normal with themutes on. With SAFE mode ON the meters still
run but no one can change any values within the unit.
As the SAFE mode is intended for security, the details of its use can not bemode."
published here. Please consult your dealer for further information on SAFE
my question:
in safe mode there is maximum protection and can not enter your password. there is a way to unlock it is a combination of keys that must be pressed during the ignition. you know what?
It would seem you have provided the answer to your own question...
Have you called a JBLpro dealer? I wouldn't be surprised if they asked
you to bring it in, to show ownership.
It -is- worthwhile to know that if a member of this forum happens to
purchase a DSC280 second-hand, that it could be "stuck" in this mode and
would need dealer assistance, so thanks for asking here.
-grumpy
the dsc280 the selling on ebay to less than 500 euros, is a machine now dated. that problem is to say the combination of blow-off mode safe?
This peaked my curiosity... not sure if I understand ..yet!
I want to put some 2405's above a tad 4002 horn.
Could I use a 2 way active crossover (stereo), and then use a passive crossover after the active crossover for the 2405?
Is such a thing possible, or even a good idea ? I could always go 3 way active stereo crossover..
Sorry to thread-hijack.. just something I'm wondering over (having 2 amps right now it would be cheaper etc...)
both would work... just need to be careful of DC or turn-on/off transients from
amps on the mid/tweets if directly connected. Capacitor in series is relatively
cheap insurance if DC or transients (pops or brief surges) are an issue. Value of cap
is based on crossover frequency... becoming effective an octave or two below
the intended frequency.
Hi !
So if I have a stero 2 way active crossover, I can use this to seperate the bass (1 amp) from the tweeter and midrange (2nd amp).
To seperate the tweeter from the mid, I use a passive crossover after the hi-pass exit from the active crossover ?
Just want to be 100% sure before I go out and get a stereo 2 way active crossover!
Thanks !!
yes.So if I have a stero 2 way active crossover, I can use this to seperate the bass (1 amp) from the tweeter and midrange (2nd amp).
you could... (passive line-level crossovers and another amp),To seperate the tweeter from the mid, I use a passive crossover after the hi-pass exit from the active crossover ?
but it would be more "normal" to use a passive crossover (perhaps in the 7-9KHz range),
to split the signal from the 2nd amp -output-... for example:
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/Net...tics/N7000.pdf
The input to the N7000 would come from your actively high-passed "amp #2".
The N7000 "Low Freq Output" would go to the midrange, and the "High Freq
Output", to the 2405.
For stereo, two N7000 or equivalent would be necessary.
you should buy a 3 ways crossover then, like the Ashly XR2001. That is going to be far less expensive than buying (2) 2 ways crossovers, and it is also likely to better respect the original signal.
The JBL M553 is another option, as is the Behringer DCX2496 (digital).
I don't agree that the decision is so clear cut, but a 3-way active crossover often
isn't much more $$ than a 2-way, and can still be used as a 2-way if one wished
to start out (or end up) that way.
hi!
It isnt the extra cost of a 3 way stereo crossover for me so much, more the cost of a 3rd power amp.
I like good stuff, so I'd probably spend about £500 on the 3rd amp.
If I can get away without that, it's a great saving for me.
Thanks for the info
NB
**Grumpy** - I've just been googling the N7000. It looks like it was made for just this purpose - seperating 2405's (or similar) from a mid horn.. in just the way I want..
Looks like a ready-made circuit diagram I could just plain-old copy?
What do you think, good enough for the job?
Thanks again!
you can use a low power amp for the slot, even a chip amp, or a home made class A?
Look at Greg Timbers' post in the 4345 club thread (it was just quoted recently). He underlines the benefits of having a dedicated amp for the ring radiator, and the low power they need.
I agree with POS's comments, ... just pointing out alternatives.
Buying or cloning an N7000 or 3106 is another valid path. -grumpy
This looked like as good a place as any to ask this question:
My "new" 4345s have the custom CC networks. I have an Ashly XR-1001 on the way. The photo shows it to be the new "graphite" version with rear-mounted power switch and therefore I presume the auto-balanced XLR jacks.
What I'm hoping to use are two Crown amps: PS-400, and PS-200. I also have two Crown PS-MOD/X adapters to allow XLR input to the amps. I'm a bit of an electronics idiot and don't understand the difference between the PS-MOD/X and the PS-MOD/A. The manual says both allow balanced input but the X is passive using a transformer while the A uses "active circuitry". Which is preferred? What are the advantages of either over the other? I have been offered a pair of PS-MOD/A's as well, I just can't tell if I need them.
In general, is there an advantage to using balanced inputs if my runs between the Ashly and the Crowns is only a couple of feet? I won't have balanced output from the pre-amp anyway so I'll be either using the 1/4 TRS Ashly inputs or an adapter to the XLR. What is required to connect to the Ashly properly from a pre-amp with RCA jacks?
This is most likely the first of many questions I'll have, but it's critical to me just to get started on the right foot. Thanks in advance for your replies.
The passive transformer version will give complete isolation between your pre amp and the amp. That would help get rid of any ground hum problems you have....if any in the first place. The transformer depending on the quality could be a weak link in the signal path, it could start to saturate with high level low frequency input signal, it could limit the frequency response at the extremes. Could is the key word. The active version would not give you isolation but you may not need it. Frequency response may be wider.
I would try it without any of the input plug in modules and use either the 1/4 jacks or the terminal strip. On the outputs of the crossover try it first using pin 1 to the ring of a 1/4 inch plug or to the ground terminal on the amp and pin 2 to the tip of the 1/4 inch plug or to the + terminal on the input strip. The other way is to tie pin 3 and pin 1 on the XLR together inside the XLR plug that is plugged into the crossover.
The PS200 and PS400 are basically Crown DC300 and D150 power amps. I used many of them with active crossovers using the pin 1 and 3 tied together method.
Let us know how it works.
Mike Caldwell
www.mikecaldwellaudioproductions.com
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