4411 clones

[duaneage]

I am going to build a pair of 4411 clones, thanks to a forum member offering me a pair of 044 tweeters I can build what I want instead of mixing together different drivers. I have not seen a pair of 4411 speakers up close in 2 decades so I am am hoping I can get some help from the forum on a few things,

Were the front baffles painted or was a vinyl veneer applied? What was the original finish like. smooth or textured?

Was the rear of the cabinet flush or indented 1/4 inch?

I already have the box vulume and porting dimentions worked out, I am using 1.6 cu ft with a 3 inch tube. I would like to use furniture grade plywood for the sides rather than MDF, I will use MDF for the front and back. I hope the plywood does not adversely affect the sound too much.

If anyone can post pictures or help me with some front baffle distances I would appreciate it. I will post some pictures of this as I go along, should be interesting.

[Akira]

if you need further info post...i've owned these speakers for 8 years and never really got into them so there's not a lot i could tell you...except measurement. good luck with your project. everyone here would enjoy pic updates.

[DMMD]

if you need further info post...i've owned these speakers for 8 years and never really got into them so there's not a lot i could tell you....

Well, I guess you can send them to me.... I love 'em.

[duaneage]

I noticed the foam around the grill frame. Is that original or was it added later? My 128H woofers have foam surrounds instead of accordian, are your woofers 123s?


I am making mirror image pairs for improved imaging. I had to move the midrange away from the woofer slightly to allow the midrange enclosure to fit behind.

I'll get some pics of it so far. don't think i'll use blue cloth, WAF is higher for black

[Lancer]

No wonder he isn't too wild about the 4411, his have the wrong woofers...
I wonder what bright bulb put those in there...

[Akira]

No wonder he isn't too wild about the 4411, his have the wrong woofers...
I wonder what bright bulb put those in there...

don't know much about this series 4310 offspring...i do know that the bass and mid sound really good, very tight well defined and clear, quite a surprise when tested in open air. hate the metalic sound of the 044HF's.

so what are the proper drivers? these are 2213H @ 8ohms

[duaneage]

The correct woofers are the 128H series. They have a foam surround and work really well in small boxes considering they are 12 inch woofers.

How deep does that 3 inch port go into the box? How long to you figure it is.?

[Akira]

the port is exactly 6" deep (end to baffel) and uses the popular 3" diameter tube.
this 12" sounds great. i would never trade in the accordian style surround. stiffness limitations aside...30 plus years of life.

[Lancer]

this 12" sounds great. i would never trade in the accordian style surround. stiffness limitations aside...30 plus years of life.

Personally knowing the designers of this system, I'm really glad they didn't feel the same way.

[Robh3606]

Here's what a 128H vs a 2213H looks like in WinIsd.


Rob

[johnaec]

Green is 128H?

John

[clmrt]

I've been wondering about those bloated curves. Same with the 125 / 127 in the 36 / 26, a big old bump in the response. Sealing the port flattens the curve and gives a high Q of around 1.1.Did Lansing et al purposefully make the bass behave this way? My L88's were WAY over the top in that area, the 36's and 26's less so.

Sorry if this is a hijack.

[Zilch]

Did Lansing et al purposefully make the bass behave this way?

To match the bloated upper mids, perhaps?

[Sorry....]

[duaneage]

Here is a shot of the front baffle board routed out for the 2105 mid. The midrange can is visible through the hole. I used a 5 inch pvc electrical coupler for the can and plugged the rear with a 3/4 inch particleboard slug. 4 ich pvc was too small and I did not want to build a box.

[duaneage]

Here is a wider shot with the woofer and port holes cut. All I am waiting for now are the 044 tweeters from Vertical800 and I can cut those holes next. I will use brass wood inserts for the midrange screws to prevent hitting the mid can. The woofer cutout is routed so the 128 H is almost flush. The baffle board will sit on top of the sides rather than inserted. I like the cleaner look of the baffle that way.

A plywood backer was added to add support for the woofer and give the mounting screws more wood to work with. The midrange can is mounted in a groove I cut with the router that is about 1/4 inch deep. Gorilla glue was used to attach it to the baffle, the expanding action of the glue worked perfectly to seal the can.