4411 clones

[duaneage]

The side wall of the cabinet was notched and relieved to allow the L-pads to fit. I brought the foilcal out to the edge rather than recessing them 3/8", again this is a personal preference for a clean looking baffle. It also gave me more room for the grille frame. It was rather difficult to line up the mounting holes to the attenuator board, I had to massage the holes on the first one to fit but got this one right on the first try. Hidden behind the foilcal it should be A-OK

[duaneage]

Long time no update.

I finished the project after a delay in getting the tweeters.

[duaneage]

Da otha 1

[duaneage]

I did a few things differently from the originals.


The duct tubes were made from 3 inch pvc elbows. I cut out the middle 6 inches so the port would curve in and down . This puts the opening of the port 1.5 inches from any cabinet wall and reduces high power compression. The foilcals were placed at the edge of the cabinet rather than 3/8" in. I like the look of the foilcals being on the edge although the cabinets had to be routed out for the controls.

The baffle is on top of the sides rather than being framed. This looks cleaner than exposed wood edges framing the baffle and is a favorite technique of mine.

The midrange is flush routed to the cabinet as well as the 128. I am going to shim the 128 out 3/16" though because it is difficult to remove once in the cabinet. But Ido like the flush mounting so I may keep it.

I used stainless steel hardwre for the driver mounting, i have to paint over the tweeter screws yet.

I have not made grills yet. Waiting for a rainy day for that project.

[duaneage]

The port seamlessly blends into the baffle board, I think better than the originals. I cut a 3 inch hole through the front then a 3 1/4" relief on the baffle board rear was made so the pvc pipe slips into the rear tightly. Gorilla glue was used to glue the pipe in place. After the glue dried I used a Dremel tool to sand flush the baffle with the opening. The result is a professional looking port transistion

[duaneage]

The sides are made with 3/4 inch red oak plywood. I think the MDF is a better choice acoustically but the plywood was acquire real cheap and I wanted to try it. I used a rather dark stain, two treatments, to give it a walnut appearance. I was warned that there would be a red tint but I don't notice any. One downer iturned out to be glue on the veneer that came through as light patches. I guess I could sand them doen again and restain, If anyone has an opinion on doing that let me know.

[duaneage]

Listening tests ranged from Jazz to disco and classic rock to spoken word.


I don't like the room they are in, too many hard surfaces and no good sitting positions. I plan to use them for reviewing vinyl records that I have cleaned up with Sound Forge and audio processors.

I found the lower midrange to be a bit brighter than I thought they would be. The 2105 has a 1 db advantage over the LE5-9 so I lowered the midrange level a bit. Imaging is incredible. Almost surround sound like.
The bass is super tight. The 128H woofers have new surrounds and are bit tight. The surrounds are pretty firm compared to the grey originals. T/S tests revealed the values were changed a bit but in the cabinets they worked out pretty close. I can't complain.

These are very easy speakers to listen to. I know JBL made better, but I am estatic with them. I made a few mistakes making them but I learned quite a bit and I am ready for my next two projects, L100T3 and a redesign of a pair of Polk Audio 10Bs I have (whoops, should have not let that slip)