Hi
What's the best glue to use? (I have at hand a tube of the 'Bostik, all purpose, dries in minutes' variety)
Should the seal be showing at all after the woofer is in place, as in the photo?
Thanks
Hi
What's the best glue to use? (I have at hand a tube of the 'Bostik, all purpose, dries in minutes' variety)
Should the seal be showing at all after the woofer is in place, as in the photo?
Thanks
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
There is a recessed ring in the woofer frame where the round gasket goes on the driver. You should still be able to get them. Try JBL Pro. Look through the Tech Sheets for the Part Number
None!! Don't use glue. Use a non-hardening gasket material. You can get it at Parts Express as one possible source.What's the best glue to use?
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
Dammit, that shows the importance of asking when you're not sure. Didn't even notice the recessed ring . Parts Express is in Canada so will need to find non-hardening material closer to home. Any suggestions from UK'ers appreciated.
Thanks, Rob
One more thing: noticed that one woofer has a tiny wire (see below) while the other doesn't. Is this a problem?
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
You should never need any glue or gasket to mount the older LE series to the baffle (LE120H an exception, and I have never seen a LE14H-x) I take it that this driver is not original to the cabinet you are installing it in, correct? All of the o-ring LE series woofers are very particular about the cutout size. There was originally a PVC o-ring around the back that sealed the frame to the front baffle. If the hole is too large or irregularly shaped the o-ring won't seal, too small, and the frame won't seat.
A 'respected' company called Wembley Loudspeaker. It's the same on both drivers. Is it really bad?
One driver also buzzes when there is really strong bass. I'm hoping it's not to do with the voice coil beginning to separate from the cone. Is there any way I can take a close up photo to prove one way or the other?
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
The original white "O" ring is the gasket. If it's in good shape and the cabinet cut-outs are not chipped or have missing edges you should be OK.So, you think I shouldn't use any kind of gasket,
Rob
"I could be arguing in my spare time"
If the white is the o-ring extruding out from under the flat side frame, looks like it just needs to be reseated in it's groove. Still shouldn't need any type of sealant.
You an use an adhesive remover on the glue that fixes the dust cap to the cone, then gently separate the cap from the cone. The cone-voice coil joint is then visible. It can be reglued if it's notcompletely separated. You should shim the voice coil to do so. Paper shims are likely the right thickeness. I just did exactly this to a buzzing LE-14A I was given for free. Works great now.
Lol, that may prove a bit tricky for me to attempt to do . Looks like I'll have to take it back to the shop who did the refoam.
Out of interest, is all that glue on the back of the cone bad work that I have the right to ask to be removed? If they were to remove the glue (free of charge) I could also ask them to check out the cause of the buzzing at the same time. Might make doing that a bit cheaper.
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
The one white O ring that was glued is still usable but not perfect anymore. The other O ring is fine because I never touched it
Is it possible to buy replacement O rings? Edit: you answered that previously.
As far as the one woofer cut out that was glued is concerned, I applied a tiny drop of superglue at various points rather than around the whole circumference, so it's not too bad. Unfortunately, removing the O ring took off a little paint.
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
I've soaked those white o-rings in hot water and had them
return closer to the original shape...
Main: PC (optimised) ->U2 Sabre async-> Slagleformer-> Job 225-> L96-> SVS SB12NSD. Bedroom: Audio-GD NFB6-> LCR 6328P
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